Santiago to Rio Hato and Playa Blanca

January 28, 2023

Today was no doubt the worst headwind day of the trip, and probably my life. Maybe I tempting fate yesterday saying that the toughest part was behind me now, which it was as far as elevation went - today was only about 1,500 feet, but I just did not anticipate this massive wind today, and right in my face. It was with me all day - I just could not shake it no matter which direction I went. I was averaging about 7-8mph (10-12kph), which is horrible on flats,and for 85 miles, had me a bit worried if I would get to my destination before dark. It was just brutal all day except for the last 15 miles. As I looked at the route on Google, it appeared that the last 15 miles turned in a way such that it was going to become a glorious tailwind, and indeed it did. Still, even with making up that time at the end, I was still in the saddle nearly 10 hours, taking out breaks. That’s just a long time to be on the saddle.

I left early too, just before 7 o'clock, to try to beat the heat - and it worked for a little while too. There was not really anything to eat around my hotel except for McDonald's, but I didn't want to walk all that way just for oatmeal, so I just had some leftover nasty cinnamon-like rolls from last night and some really old tortillas and peanut butter I've had since the beginning of the trip (PB at least) trying to finish and get rid of some weight. Oh, and I also finished up four chicken McNuggets from last night that I couldn't finish. And I had a chunk of watermelon left over from last night too. I like to have at least some kind of fruit every day, either an apple, banana, or some kind of melon. I drank a lot of water again today too. At least a gallon and a half. Maybe two.

Santiago is definitely not a touristy place, or any place you’d want to retire. Very commercial and industrial and loud and busy. Unlike yesterday, I passed through quite a few small towns today and a lot of residential sprawl. As a result, I was chased by about three dogs today to from houses right on the street. Fortunately, none on the trip so far have been really vicious dogs, just curious, fast, noisy dogs.

True to the biking gods so far this trip, the hardest days make the best nights, and tonight was no exception! This place I'm staying at tonight is no doubt the nicest place of the whole trip. Nicest room, nicest view, nicest shower, quietest air-conditioning, and right up next to the beach. It is the most expensive though as well by a long shot. About $135, and up till now the most expensive has been the three nights in Boquete at $85 each. But it was not without its share of anxiety to try to get here. Google and booking both looked as if there were a ton of independent individual hotels in this location, but apparently, it is like a giant Tulum Mexico, where it is a master-planned community with residences, condos, hotels, restaurants, kids activities, you name it, but right on the beach. Tulum appears more adult and expat-oriented certainly, whereas at least the hotel part here is very much for local Panamanians, but just very affluent locals. There was a line of traffic trying to get in to the main arched entry, so I cycled up and down this road to look for another entrance, but there was none. So I went back, waited in the line of cars, and finally told they guy at the guard shack that I did not have a reservation, but I was just looking to see if one of the hotels here had space for the night. We (I) had some trouble with the translations, but he basically said that they were full for the night. Not surprising, being Saturday. I looked around for anywhere else, but there was nothing for a long ways, so, with it getting late, I thought I would splurge and get this room on Booking which apparently was by a private owner. There were some places going for three and $400 a night, so I was lucky to find this one. Maybe a last-minute deal or something. Anyway, I had trouble communicating with her and paying for the room too to the point that I was starting to get worried about having a bad for the night (there were no fire stations around either for me to pitch my tent). Eventually though, I got into my room and what a room at that! Opulence everywhere. The pool here is no doubt the largest have ever seen in my life. It’s like a football field – no, soccer field!

And as another bonus tonight, the resort had lots of restaurants of course, but they also had a fabulous buffet! Those who know me know that I love buffets, especially when I’m really hungry (my favorites are in Vegas). On my US East Coast bike ride, I lived on Home Town Buffet meals, as they were all over the place on the east coast (they were absolutely necessary for century rides!). This amazing buffet was totally unexpected on this trip – I had pretty-much blown buffets off thinking they just didn’t exist down here in Central America, at least to the caliber I liked. This one was really good too. Not like Vegas standards certainly, but the salads were great with lots of cheese, ham, and olives, and there was quite a dessert table too. I always try to make it a goal when I visit a buffet that they lose money on me. At $24 tonight, I had my work cut out for me, but I gave it my level best. I had a lot of headwinds to unleash here. I think when I was done, I went through about 10-12 plates. I stopped using the salad and dessert plates, because they just did not hold enough. It was getting annoying going back so many times, so I just started loading up the bigger entree plates and heaped everything on those. I took several breaks and did some typing as my food settled a bit. Oh yeah, I have a whole established plan around these kinds of things. The key is to not fill up on bread and lettuce. They didn’t even have any kind of bread – not even tortillas! Nice job, guys, you set up the playing field nicely for me! Rice is not bad if it compliments other things. Watch the potatoes too. Then obviously, save dessert for last. And just water to drink.

My butt is really sore tonight, to go with my legs, feet, and well, pretty much everything else. I only have a 25 mile ride tomorrow though to Coronado. Yes, the shortest planned day of the trip! Coronado is supposedly the Mercer Island, Lake Oswego, or Pebble Beach of Panama, as I understand. I don’t have to check out until noon, so I’m going to try to sleep in, and then do some more computer work for a bit, and maybe take a dip in the largest pool I’ve ever seen just to say I was in it!

As of tonight, I have less than 100 miles to the finish line – Whoo Hoo! Three more different hotel stays, barring something major.