I just love all aspects of cycling. Not just the obvious enjoyment and contentment of it all, but also how much more observant and wise the decisions you have to come up with makes you. Alan (CR cyclist from the other day) informed me that you could not ride on Highway 27. I researched why, and apparently there are quite a few roads that are closed to cyclists in Costa Rica, this included my entire route from Puntarenas to Jaco. Apparently, I was already on some restricted roads when I entered the country, but I did not see any signs, and certainly there were no police to tell me otherwise. Apparently the reason is to protect cyclists on the high speed freeways (80 kph - top speed limit in the county - just less than 50 mph), but I also read that they are somewhat lenient when there is no the route between points. Well, there is no other route between Puntarenas and Jaco. This is also the route TDA Cycling goes through from Puntarenas to Panama City and charges clients $3200 for it. I know they also have trucks to help take the bikes through busy parts of cities and up hills in order to keep it enjoyable for them, but I doubt they would take a 150 mile stretch out of that section for when people pay that kind of money, so either they knew some thing I didn't or they were just never aware, but, regardless, I figured I would give it a try. Sure enough though, when I get to Highway 27 there was a sign that said no cyclists. Crap. I turned around and stopped off at a restaurant and asked a local about getting a large taxi , but he said it was not a problem to take Highway 27 to Jaco, just don't go any further like to San Jose on it. OK I thought, I will give it a try, so I went back out on the road, and stopped one last time behind a semi waiting to move, and there was a taxi van next to me that I thought I would ask one more time to see if he could take me if he had a different story, but he said the same thing that it would not be a problem. OK, then, I felt better about ignoring the sign. My paranoia quickly dissipated as I got on the highway and saw a couple of other cyclists coming toward me from the other direction, and then I had two police officers pass me, then I passed another cyclist! Now here's the craziest part of all of this: This was the best quality cycling road I have been on in all of Costa Rica! A huge wide shoulder that was easily equivalent to the freeways in Mexico, except in Mexico, they go even faster, as the max speed here was 80 km/h. I definitely felt the safest I had been in all of Costa Rica today, so it is quite ironic that this road was close to cyclists. I just don't get it.
Then I turned off to Highway 34 to Jaco and saw a little roadside Café, that I thought I would have some breakfast at. I was really hoping to have some pancakes. I haven't had any pancakes at all on this trip and I would sure kill for some Denny's hearty wheat pancakes. They did not have any pancakes though, so I just had some huevos rancheros and toast, which was good and local I suppose.
As I was leaving from breakfast, I looked at my tires as I often do, because something just did not feel right. Sure enough, I had another flat tire, and on the back wheel again. Ughh - I hate flats on the back. This time it was a really slow leak, so I'm sure I was riding on it flat for quite a long time, I don't know how long, but just today though, as I check my tires every morning before I leave. It looks like I got a split right through the Kevlar bead and the pressure from the tube started to push through a little bit and it just rubbed a hole from the fibers inside the tire. As luck would have it, I brought a liner with me, and a really thick supposedly-puncture-proof tube that I put in thinking that the liner especially would prevent another pushing through of the tube. But I looked in Jaco for a bike shop anyway, and there was one right on the way to the hotel district, fortunately. They were pretty busy, but I asked them please to look at my brakes, chain, and to see if they had any puncture-proof tires like the Schwalbe Marathons I have. They didn't. My chain was beyond loose and ready to break anytime though (was new when I started the trip). I have a chain repair tool with me, but no telling how many times it could break from this point on, so I had them replace it. Then I just bought a tire to carry with me since they didn't have any puncture proof tires incase that split gets larger, so, I feel like I am better to take my chances with the road protection that I have plus a liner. I only have about 500 miles more to go, so I think I am prepared.
Because of all of that, I got down to the hotel area in Jaco late. I found a hotel off the main strip, though that seems pretty quiet and was cheap. No pictures today - not worth it, but has everything anyone would need: TV, AC, Wifi, mold, and even has a large fridge and microwave! But no hot water. I went out grocery shopping after dinner and got some microwave popcorn - we'll see if it works!
Jaco is another beach town but much nicer than Puntarenas. Tons of restaurants right next to each other again. They have this one restaurant called Ridiculous Burgers that is pretty famous apparently. They have 5 challenge burgers including one that is basically four - triple burgers stacked on top of each other, on top of a mountain of fries and onion rings, that if you can eat it all in 30 minutes, it is free, and you get $100, otherwise, it is $42! You have to look at the menu here: Ridiculous Burgers (have Google translate to English for you, then scroll down and click on menu). I might try their huge quinoa burger tomorrow just so I can say I have eaten there.
I have a day off tomorrow to catch up on some work, and enjoy the day here!
A small glimpse of Volcan Arenal, next to the country capital of San Jose. Arenal is to San Jose what Mt. Rainier is to Seattle or Mt. Hood is to Portland.
What a glorious bike lane! Ranks among the best on my whole trip. Why on Earth do you restrict bikes on here, Costa Rica? Because vehicles go 50 mph? Absolutely crazy.
The cafe I ate at had gender-neutral bathrooms. This was the first I had seen like this in all of Central America. I'm not sure if it was planned deliberately that way or not, but good for them if they did!
Its a blurry picture, but I think you can see the split in the Kevlar. That stuff is damn-near indestructible, but the roads in the Nicoya Peninsula were no joke either though.
There were dozens of restaurant signs as I was getting close to Jaco. This was the first (and only I think) that was in English and in miles, obviously appealing to Americans.
Having an extra day off means extended laundry day - not just my jersey, sox, and bike shorts, but now my cap and outer shorts too. I have been dripping sweat so much from my upper body, I have salt rings aroung my outer shorts to the point that it looks like I pee'd in them or something!
Yes, I did eat at the Killer Fish Taco place. Grilled fish, pineapple fish, and chicken tinga tacos and then a blackberry lemonade that had tons of seeds on the bottom - so yummy and refreshing!
It is my belief that it is a gift from heaven to have one more day of beach sunsets or all the birds singing together, and tonight I had both. Thanks God for such a bonus day!
