As I left this morning, it didn't feel like the last day of riding. Perhaps maybe because every day just feels like this is a normal way of life now.
I got a head start with my hotel being right on Highway 1, and as I started riding out after downing my big Cinnabon caramel roll, the shoulder was a mix of pot holes, dirt, gravel, and no shoulder at all. And there were a lot of hills (over 3,000 ft total elevation, which is a lot for 50 miles only). And there was quite a headwind. And lots of construction. Because of the construction, I had to go onto Highway 4, which was a gorgeous highway. Three lanes in each direction, and the shoulder was nice for the entire way until it connected back up again with Highway one. I went up and down some hills again on Highway 1 getting closer to the big Bridge of the Americas, and caught a glimpse of downtown Panama. That's when it all became real that I was near the end. I got closer to the bridge, and then I could see the bridge. I actually stopped and pulled over on the side of the road and contemplated riding over it for about 10 minutes, trying to justify it somehow. I had gone through a couple of construction zones, and everybody seem to be very mindful and observant of them, so I felt like it could be safe, and I certainly had the ambition and motivation to do so. But my logical mind kicked in and I finally came to grips that I should not do it. This trip has been filled with so much life so far, why take a chance. That was probably one of the hardest decisions of this whole trip, however. I really wanted to ride over that bridge as a symbolic way of finishing. So, per the plan, I unloaded my panniers, laid the bike down, and pulled out my pre-made sign that I had made at home before leaving on an 11 x 17 paper saying “$20 for across bridge”. I had taken a 20 minute taxi ride the other day for eight dollars, so I thought I would get a bite right away for this 10-minute ride. I looked for taxis too, as in the first part of Panama, taxi pickup trucks were everywhere around Volcan and Boquete, but I did not see any today, nor yesterday I don't think either. Anyway, I held up the sign to several pick-up trucks, but nobody stopped, finally, a military pick-up truck going the other direction went by and he waved his finger at me in some gesture, as if I was doing something wrong. There was also a motorcycle cop on the other side of the road with his radar gun but he left me alone. So I put my sign away, thinking maybe I was doing something wrong. I had set up however, in a place where it was nice and safe for a truck to pull over just in front of me, completely off the side of the road. And I would've paid a taxi if there had been one, so I wasn't sure what else to do. After about 10 min (there were not many opportunities to do a U-turn), the military truck came back around and we had an exchange of language translated by my iPhone. I explained that I did not feel it was safe to cross with my bike, and that I was holding a sign to try to get somebody to take me over. They totally agreed that it was not safe and they told me to put the bike in the back of their truck and they would drive me over. Wow! I totally did not expect that today (as those unexpected things usually happen)! Of course, in my ideal world, I would have loved to have had an escort behind me, but I know that would've held up traffic and pissed off a lot of drivers, so this was definitely the next best thing.
I’m staying in Casco Viejo tonight, the historic part of Panama City, just a few miles away from downtown Panama. Casco Viejo reminds me of a blend of Cuba and Granada. Or at least, from what pictures of Cuba look like – I’ve never actually been there. Some of these builders go back a couple of hundred years and all brick-lined, really narrow streets, and just charming architecture and hotels with balconies and hanging flower baskets. The differences between here and Cuba or Granada is occasionally you look down the street and see the high-rises of downtown Panama, so, you get a mix of multiple worlds here. Lots more pictures of the area coming in the following days!
I know I keep saying this, but its true. My hotel tonight is without a doubt the best I’ve stayed at yet on this tour, and maybe my life. Its an actual loft! I know I’ve never stayed in a hotel with two bathrooms (upstairs and downstairs), two AC units, and a gas stove, and laundry room. It has some big windows and balcony doors that open up to the hotel atrium – kind-of interesting.
Okay, remember that I still have a handful of miles to go still. The last official day of this trip is Feb 5th, when I fly back home. Until then, I’ll have a lot of content to share still every day. Not just sightseeing stuff, but also tips and hacks from my trip, and thoughts and insights that can only come from living this adventure for 8 weeks. Oh, and in case you didn’t notice, I have not posted any YouTube videos since I’ve been in Panama (well, except for Volcan Baru). But don’t think I have not been taking any! With my time off, and especially my long layover in Houston on Sunday, I’ve got a real treat of a Panama video montage for you planned that you won’t want to miss. So stay tuned to see what kinds of unexpected things may happen still!
I think this is the first time I've seen my shadow like this. The sun is from the east, which means I must have been headed west. I had to check my Google rout to make sure I was still headed in the right direction but I was - it was just temporary.
Bolivar Plaza. Simon Bolivar was a former leader of Venezuela who helped liberate Venezuela, Columbia, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, and Boliva away from Spanish control.
