Day 21: Swift reservoir to Stevenson

September 5, 2011

I got on the road at 9:45. With a 1000 foot net descent, today's ride shouldn't be too difficult.

The day started with a 2000 foot climb to Oldman pass. Most of the climbing was after turning onto Curly Creek road. The grade was 8% for a while.

Near Oldman Pass was my last good view of Mount St. Helens.

Mount St Helens looks less "devastated" on this side because the blast didn't go this direction. The summit is 1100 feet lower, but it's not hollow on this side.

USGS photo of the southeast side of Mt. Saint Helens in 1970. Shoestring Glacier in top center.

The next picture shows the immediate aftermath of the eruption on the side that didn't blow up! There was no blast here, but melting glaciers caused a mudflow that buried the Muddy river drainage.

USGS photo of the southeast side of Mount St. Helens in 1980. Shoestring glacier is gone and a mudflow fills the Muddy river drainage.

Southeast side of Mount St. Helens from a more distant vantage point than the previous two pictures. The barren mudflow is visible on the right.

After Oldman pass the road changes name to Wind River road and begins a long descent to the Wind river which I will follow down to the Columbia river. I descend almost to sea level today, even though I'm still far from the Pacific ocean.

Wind river, a tributary of the Columbia river.

In the town of Carson I detoured a couple miles off the route to visit Wind River hot spring. I went to the hot spring once before during a 1999 bike tour. At that time I could get to the hot spring without crossing the Wind river. Unfortunately, that access has since been closed by the property owner. Now the only access is from across the river.

I hiked down an extremely steep scramble trail to the river, then waded across the waist-deep fast-flowing river. It was far too risky to take valuables with me, so I left my fanny back on the west side of the river and carried only a water bottle to the hot spring. Consequently I have no picture of the hot spring from this visit. I couldn't even see the hot spring from across the river.

Wind River hot spring during a bike tour in September 1999.

I soaked in the hot spring for about an hour. It was a hot day, but the hot spring is in a deep canyon that was in shade by the time I arrived in late afternoon. It's a great soak with great scenery, but access is difficult. A dry bag would be handy. Some people used inflatable rafts to cross the river.

I was cold after crossing the river again, but the steep scramble up the canyon wall promptly warmed me up. My bike was parked at an informal trailhead at the top of the canyon, 300 feet above the river.

Back on the road it was downhill all the way to Stevenson on busy highway 14. I pedaled back and forth through town and didn't find any place to camp, so I got a room at Rodeway Inn for $59. I could have gone further to a campground in Oregon, but tomorrow morning I need to pick up a package at the Stevenson post office.

Railroad on the Washington side of the Columbia river, near Stevenson.

Columbia river in Stevenson. Here it's a reservoir formed by Bonneville dam.

After being out for 4 days, I finally found powdered milk (for breakfast cereal) at the supermarket. But still no canister fuel. That's surprising because Stevenson is a resupply point for PCT hikers.

Somehow I never saw or noticed Mount Hood while descending to the Columbia river. Perhaps nearby hills blocked the view all the time. Or maybe it was clouded over.

I was very tired and went to bed early and didn't even turn on the TV.

Distance: 49.4 mi. (79 km)
Climbing: 2999 ft. (909 m)
Average Speed: 9.8 mph (15.7 km/h)
Hiking: 1 mi. (1.6 km)

Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 999 miles (1,608 km)

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