April 16, 2012
Fonsagrada and on to Grandas de Salime
up and down
It's better than expected, with the whole sky blue at 9:00 when I looked out the bedroom window. It's almost 10:30 when I've had breakfast and checked my email, but the pharmacy's thermometer reads five degrees and it's certainly going to be chilly in the wind.
Things begin to look dodgy as I retrace yesterday's aborted ride up the first couple of kilometers out of Cadabo. Dark clouds sweep towards me from the north, where that chilly wind is coming from, blowing in my face and slowing me down. There's no way to speed up on the long climb and it makes for an anxious few minutes, wondering if there's going to be an action replay and snow or freezing rain will get me again.
It doesn't arrive, although in the first village, just six kilometers into the day, I pause until things seem okay to proceed. The same in the second village, with rain clouds scraping the horizon ahead and me eyeing places to shelter.
I put on my ankle socks as the wind is chilling my toes and my yellow jacket gets donned, as the blue fleece isn't keeping me very warm. There's not much else to wear.
Snow is on the higher ground and I get to it before too long. At a pass named Alto do Cerredo, 960 metres high, the landscape is white and the LU-530 is not only scenic, with sweeping vistas of distant snowy peaks and rolling fields, but also very quiet - there's just a passing car every few minutes, so it's okay to take a break beside the verge and I have four cartons of yogurt and a Twix that were purchased at a small supermarket in Cadebo before setting off.
That's just after one o'clock and 20 minutes later I'm heading into the hilltop town of Fonsagrada, where I imagine there's bound to be a nice café to sit and rest for a while, but I can't spot one that appeals so keep on pedalling. It's no big deal - another 20-odd kilometres ahead is Grandas de Salime, where I'll more than likely spend the night.
There are a couple more climbs lasting a few kilometres on what's now route LU-701 - the highest being 1,050 metres, with another shortly after measuring 1,030 metres.
Thankfully the sun is out most of the time, as when I ride through any shade the chill takes a nip at my extremities. If it rains it'll be nightmare.
It early in the afternoon when I cruise into Grandas and there are clearly a few places to stay, but first I want a bite to eat. It's disappointing to see the cafes all shuttered up, except a small one tucked out of the way near a church. The woman there has some sandwiches on offer, so that's my late lunch.
There's the temptation to continue cycling in what is pretty reasonable weather but instead a cheap hostal - just 5 euros for a bunk - that cateres to the pilgrims who regularly trek across this part of Spain becomes my resting place.
My bed (and bike) are in a common area, where the other two guests sit and eat or read, although for that kind of money it'as nothing to grumble about.
One of the guests, an elderly German who speaks English, reckons rain is forecast for the next ten days. Ten days. This isn't what I want to hear.
Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 2,046 km (1,271 miles)
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