September 1, 2023: Praia de Mira to Praia de Quiaios

September 1, 2023

Wait a minute - that doesn't look like a road!

Accommodations: QH Praia de Quiaios (9)

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I was excited to be back on the bikes so after another tasty breakfast, we cleaned up, loaded the bikes and rolled out of our guesthouse property and toward the lagoon along the cyclepath. There were fine mists but nowhere near as soupy as yesterday.

Would it be foreshadowing to say we couldn't believe how smooth and fast the road was as we headed out of town? Wait and see.

I knew the road would be straight south for quite a way, but I hadn't dreamed that what had been a rough and bumpy ride through the sand dunes last year would be a joy along newly paved asphalt with markings for a cyclepath in both directions this time. There were a few motorized vehicles but very few. Just out of town I could see two loaded cyclists coming our way so I stopped to chat a few moments. They are a couple from Netherlands who have cycled all the way to Algarve then up along EV 1 to this point. And loving every minute. Their bikes both had Rohloff gear hubs and belt drives - nice.

'Alex the Bandito' readying for another day on the road, gearing up at Granny's Guesthouse. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

The further we went the more arid it go, the fewer were the trees (fires some years ago) and more numerous were the wind turbines. Where last year this sectioon was rutted and bumpy sand and gravel, now it was newly paved with markings on both sides of the road to designate the cyclepath, EV 1. -- near Praia de Mira, Portugal

Here sat this forlorn little ruins of a building. Maybe a fire watchman's house from way back? -- between Praia de Mira and Quiaios, Portugal

The riding was amazing. Though today there was a slight breeze at our backs rather than the strong tailwinds we had been experiencing, we were able to ride along side-by-side and chat as we went along. After this bliss we came to a section where they had stopped the road improvements and we were on very patchy and rough paved road where we had to carefully skirt around pot-holes everywhere.

The biggest surprise came when the GPS suddenly demanded that we turn 90 degrees and head along a sandy path. Ah, I thought, it must be a short piece of trail to bring us to another road which would bring us to our hotel. Or so we thought.

The trail was through a forest of huge pine trees which smelled heavenly but was also along sandy trails. Soft sandy trails. At times extremely mushy and deep sandy trails such that cycling was impossible and pushing or dragging the bikes was almost impossible. Thinking that the paved road was 'just around the corner' we pushed and dragged our bikes along. Then the fun increased when there were trees down across the trail and we either had to go around them or lift the bikes over them. But that's not all. We came to a section where there were long steep hills down and back up the other side. Was the terrain firm here? Well, no, it was not. The sand was even deeper.

At one point we made an executive decision to turn left rather than straight ahead as we had to eventually hit a real road or a city. In theory.

The route had gone from smooth new pavement, to patched up pot-holed rough pavement, and then a 90 degree turn onto dirt trails that became a soft sandy quagmire for an hour or two of forested joy. -- near Quiaios, Portugal

The trail turned and twisted then climbed a while until we could hear a motor of some kind and Alex could see some type of civilization - we were saved. Or...

Through the trees we could see buildings and a fence, so we cut down through the trees knowing there would be a gate or opening in the high fence at some point. This would be more foreshadowing.

We pressed on along the endless and gateless fence looking longingly into the camping area with its actual roads. But we were still on the purgatory side. Along we went until the trees were so thick beside the fence there was no going through so we turned away from the fence to a trail we found. I left Alex with the bikes to check down the trail, and it seemed it might be a way out of this maze. I returned to my bike and we pushed on through the sand, over more fallen trees and there was a downed fence - aha - we must be free now!

Past a derelict building, bits of wood and junk until the trail came to a stream with not quite a way across. In any of the 'streams' we saw today they were all totally dry with not a drop of water. Not this stream - water flowing merrily along. And the crossing half collapsed into the stream. Having a bit of adrenaline anger I said nope, we're going over. Despite almost falling into the stream, I dragged my bike across, then Alex's bike across and he hopped over. Were we free now? Well no, that would be way too easy. Coming around the corner on the path we came to yet another fence with a gate in front of us and one about 50 m away. Both locked. We looked at each other, fairly fed up with this route. Alex leapt over then helped me lift my loaded bike over the 1+ m high fence, then his bike, then I climbed and jumped over the fence. Finally, freedom.

Barely 100 m further along a PAVED road was this huge resort-like hotel where we rolled up and I almost hugged the people at reception. I told them part of our story and they laughed along with us as it was already fading into the humour of it all. Our room was ready, so we rolled the bikes into their storage room, came up to the room, each had our shower... and collapsed in fatigue.

Picnic dinner on the boiardwalk overlooking the beach. -- Praia de Quiaios, Portugal

The recover nap was rejuvenating though when I got up, I still felt physically tired. Both of us were pretty hungry so after looking online for a supermarket, we found one about 200 m away and headed that way where we bought supplies for a breaded chicken croissandwich, and some juice. We got the required Milka bars but didn't end up having them. They were stored away for another day.

From where we enjoyed our picnic dinner we could see south to our route tomorrow - somewhere over 'them there hills'. -- Praia de Quiaios, Portugal

The decision was made to have our meal as a picnic up on the boardwalk overlooking the vast sandy beach. We had had enough of sand so did not venture down toward the water, but sat on our bench and just took in the views. It was also fun to watch a group of intermediate surfers practicing the sport on the medium sized waves.

Tonight was an early evening and shortly after our picnic we returned to our hotel where we just relaxed and watched our laundry dry. Or at least watched a few episodes of South Park!

Incredible that just north of here at Praia de Mira the beach had been so busy yet here it was not deserted but very quiet. The waves were still great, though. -- Praia de Quiaios, Portugal

Today's ride: 34 km (21 miles)
Total: 223 km (138 miles)

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