August 24, 2023: Lisbon to Porto via train

August 24, 2023

Seats 15/17, Carriage 21, Train 621

Accommodations: Hotel Peninsular (6)

BEFORE last night's lights out we decided to set an alarm. The decision to do this was a good one, for when the alarm sounded at 7 am we were both in the deepest of sleep and we both knew we'd have slept in way too late.

This being said, once the deep sleep was far away, up we both jumped to pack our few things, leaving behind what we would not need on the bike for the cycling. These discards were popped into the suitcases which would remain at the hotel until we returned in a couple of weeks.

Before leaving the area, we went next door for croissants, cafe con leite, and fresh orange juice. In a nearby table was the pleasant Brazilian man we had met yesterday when we all checked in at the same time. He said he has been coming to this place regularly since 1992. Today he was heading off to Dublin to visit his son.

We zipped back upstairs to clean up and load the bikes. After checking out we brought the bikes down to the foyer where we made sure everything was ready to go, then we crossed the Alameda to do the first cycling of the trip.

It was a good thing we started out slow - I wanted to be sure nothing was amiss with either of the bikes or any of the gear. There were a few issues with the bikes and gear but I soon had things sorted. The route immediately climbed a huge hill - so we walked. Then it went along a very busy city road - so we walked. Finally I had my 'aha' moment when I realized I had not set my GPS to the route I had planned, but simply set it to bring us to the Oriente train station. Once I realized this, we walked our bikes to intersect my planned route which is when everything was just peachy and we were able to safely cycle.

Now the route followed quiet roads, but mostly was along designated bike paths, and the majority was downhill to the train station. We had left our hotel with a three hour cushion, which was great after having to sort the bike/gear issues, having to walk quite a while and then having to veer to the right route.

Oriente train station. -- Lisbon, Portugal

The Oriente station is gigantic so to start we looked over everything then I went up for the info booth (it appears there isn't one) but asked a guy who was buying a ticket if that area was where the main tracks were located - which they were. We took the elevator up to the upper concourse then waited til our train showed up on the screens - InterCity Train 621 to Porto via Guimaraes. About half an hour before train time of 11:39 am we saw the listing for Track 5. So far, so good.

To confirm yet again, I asked a couple if this was, indeed, the spot for IC 621, which it was. When the train arrived at 11:36 am there was Carriage 21 so I zinged both bikes through the doors and onto the hooks where they would hang until our arrival to Porto.

We plunked into our seats - seats 15 and 17 were designated for the two bike slots which made everything so easy. For the next three hours we gazed out through the window at dry, brown fields, eucalyptus, grapes, olive, cherry, and almond groves. We also dozed. Our time is still a bit messed up. For the last few moments before our arrival we chatted with an older couple from New Mexico and a young student from Arizona, all of whom were very pleasant and interesting.

Then we'd arrived to Porto-Campanha. Getting the bikes out of the train was pretty easy, but trying to get onto the elevator was not. Many people were choosing it instead of the stairs. So, when in Rome, carry your bikes down the long staircase then back up into the station's lobby. Outside of said station was traffic mayhem and as we rolled out I noticed a funny wobbling of my rack - one of the lower attachment bolts had wiggled itself loose and fallen out somewhere. I had no spare so used a bolt from another part of the bike which holds the rear fender and replaced it with a zip tie. Again, issues would not hold us back so we walked over to the exit, mounted the bikes and headed into the great city of Porto toward our hotel.

The route was pretty similar to the one I took in May after my tour but this time we were headed to this hotel just up the street from the São Bento train station. As we approached the core the traffic volume was ridiculous and the sidewalks were packed with tourists but we felt we had to walk to keep out of that traffic, and before long we pulled up to the hotel.

In the reception the same Brazilian fellow from last year was there and he had us checked into Room 437 where we brought everything, including our bikes, up to the room.

By now a bit hungry, we headed out to a restaurant that was suggested by another of the hotel staff who said her grandma used to take her there. We headed that way only to find... they were away on holidays until the 31st. Drat. By now quite hungry, we found another place a street away where we had a very tasty meal served by a super waiter with a great sense of humour.

Chicken stuffed with garlic and cheese, then wrapped in bacon with buttery rice, fries, and a Fanta (similar to Sumol it is made with real juice. They had no Sumol). -- Confeitaria dos Clérigos, Porto, Portugal

We were starting to get tired but still headed down to the Ribeira via some of the winding streets, but there were so many people! In search of who-knows-what for dessert, we stumbled upon a little shop where they happily sold us a Milka bar!!

After supper we did a bit of walking around and headed down to the Ribeira, then climbed all the way back up as we headed toward our hotel. -- Porto, Portugal

Scenic winding streets of the old city. -- Porto, Portugal

And now it was time to head back toward our hotel as we were both starting to fade. I recognized a street from a few months ago when I wandered the city with the Grampies (also bloggers here on CycleBlaze and provide much better reading enjoyment than I can ever provide). Up ahead was the train station so I sneakily headed over and brought Alex in to see the magnificent foyer which is adorned with a kazillion azulejos. He was impressed.

On our way back to our hotel the São Bento train station was on our route so I suprised Alex with the azulejos in the main foyer depicting scenes of the history of Porto and Portugal. -- Porto, Portugal

Due to the ongoing construction that has surrounded the station for at least the past two years, it took some meandering but we finally got to the other side of the station where we got to our hotel, and just dropped. There was the normal cleaning up to do but our day was over though the city will continue to hum for hours to come.

Today's ride: 18 km (11 miles)
Total: 25 km (16 miles)

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