September 5, 2023
Cameron to Marble Canyon
89 is my number, for now.
After a deep and peaceful night of sleep, I was up and able to get an early start. The remaining half of the Navajo Taco was part of my breakfast. Not a usual culinary choice that early but I couldn’t carry it for later. Since I believe in the old adage, “waste not want not,” I polished it off. That proved to have been a good decision as it got me through the ride.
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US-89 is the main road in and out of Cameron. I took it North. The traffic seemed mostly to have been made up of people going to work and some vacationers. Everyone was moving fast. The road shoulder was mostly ample but varied from great to bad in some spots. At times, it disappeared. This was usually when a climbing lane was added to one side.
When the climbing lane was on my side, I used the right lane. Except for a couple of California drivers, motorists were able to give me a wide berth. When the climbing lane was on the other side, “my shoulder” often disappeared. This was disconcerting a few times. I think ADOT should keep the shoulder in all areas of that road. It is a tourist route that more cyclists would use if the shoulders were reliable. It would also be safer for motorists.
When I got past the turnoff for Tuba City (US-160), traffic volume decreased, for a little while. Then, as the morning wore on, it seemed to pickup again.
The small village of Gap appeared after approximately 30 miles. I had stopped a mile before it at a Native American jewelry and craft stand. If you have seen these, you know they are ramshackle structures, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Local women sell their handmade items along the roadside.
Several that I had passed were not open but this one was. The stop was a break for me but I did look over the inventory. A silver bracelet with turquoise stone(s) fetches between $200.00 to 300.00 dollars.
While I was sitting on the ground on one side of the stand a fellow pulled up and began conversing with me. His wife was one of the proprietors. His name was Felix. He works in power plants back along the Ohio River in my neck of the woods. I enjoyed talking with him for a few minutes before moving on.
At Gap, there was a gas station and convenience store. Since it was the only game around, it seemed everyone on 89 was stopping there, if only to use the restroom. The younger Native American female cashier was friendly. I used the restroom then purchased a cold drink and a salty snack. A brief conversation was had with a fellow outside about my trip. He was interested because he is from a little town in Utah (Delta) that is near to my initial destination of Ely, Nevada. He wished me well and then I moved on.
This ride involved significant stretches of highway with very few areas of human habitation or services. The landscape and scenery were beautiful at times, However, during rides like this one, I look for landmarks of progress. The next one was 26 miles to a turn onto US-89 A.
US-89 goes to Page but I was headed to Marble Canyon and needed to take 89 A. Since 26 miles is a long way, I put my head down (not really) and started grinding it out.
About 8 miles further, near a small village of CedarRidge, another Native American craft/jewelry stand appeared. The lady was setting up so I decided to stop. We spoke for a bit and I ended up purchasing a cedar seed and turquoise bracelet. This was much less expensive than the silver ones. She told me they are for good luck and can also be placed on a baby’s crib to help with bad dreams. Since someone in my extended family will be having a baby soon, I’ll give it as a gift. By the way, the proprietor knows Felix because he is from Cedar Ridge.
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I continued on, eventually reaching the turn for US-89 A. The road narrowed and the shoulder disappeared. But it was mostly alright because traffic volume was further reduced. The sign said 14 miles to Marble Canyon. I took one more brief break and then hit the road for the home stretch.
It was mostly downhill, which was great but the piper will have to be paid tomorrow. I enjoyed today and will not worry about tomorrow until it gets here. This was a longer ride but I still finished relatively early. The Marble Canyon Lodge let me check in early. This was great because it allowed me to do some laundry, get something to eat, and rest. Although the restaurant is closed, the convenience store next door has food. One of the ladies from the Trading Post heated some food up for me.
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Marble Canyon is a remote area that is on the way to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Most people go to the South Rim because it is easier to get there. Of those who come to the North Rim, most of them breeze through Marble Canyon. There is a bridge over the Colorado River and a Navajo interpretive area, where Condors can sometimes be observed. To hike the canyon, one must go 6 more miles to Lee’s Ferry. For me, that would have been a 12-mile round trip. I decided against it. No regrets. This is a cool place. I was able to take care of a few details and get some rest. Excited for tomorrow, even though it will be a challenging day.
Today's ride: 72 miles (116 km)
Total: 178 miles (286 km)
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