August 5, 2009
Day 27: To Kit Carson campground
Early in the morning it was 50F, calm, and dry. I got on the road before 8 AM. The first 15 miles were fast and easy descending alongside the Walker river.
Then a wide valley opens up and the road is mostly flat through the towns of Walker and Coleville. The valley has extensive irrigation.
Just before US 395 crosses into the state of Nevada I turned left onto CA 89. I took a short stop at the fire station at the intersection. I remember stopping at this fire station during a tour 9 years ago. I filled the water bottles for the long shadeless climb.
The first 500 feet of climbing is very steep, 8-10% grade in a canyon above a small creek. Then the road turns away from the creek and starts climbing a massive ridge.
The views are outstanding because there is nothing to obstruct the view. The road climbs higher and higher above the Walker river valle, with no traffic. The southernmost part of Hwy 89 is a road to nowhere. No shade anywhere, but the elevation gain mostly compensates for the rising temperature. I only got sweaty on the steepest sections. I still had plenty of water at the top.
500 feet below the summit the road crosses into Alpine county. From the county line I had my last good view of the basin east of the Sierra Nevada mountains. I'm leaving the basins behind for good now.
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Monitor Pass is 3200 feet (970m) higher than the fire station at the CA 89 turnoff. The grade is more than 6% at least half the time. Shortly after I stopped at the summit a motorcyclist also stopped and he took my picture. We talked for a few minutes. Touring cyclists and touring motorcyclists have a lot in common. We both know what it's like to be out all day in the sun, wind, heat, cold, dust, insects, etc.
Monitor Pass is well known among hard-core California road cyclists. It's part of a double century ride called the "Markleeville Death Ride". Now I've pedaled a loaded bike over the pass in both directions. Going north (like today) the climb is bigger and steeper than going south.
Trees reappear on the descent from Monitor Pass. I'm no longer in a basin east of the Sierra Nevada, but I'm still on the eastern slope where streams flow east into the basin.
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I descended to the scenic Carson river, then a few miles down river to Markleeville (5500 feet elevation).
Markleeville (population 200) is the county seat of California's least-populous county. California has 37 million people but only 1140 live in Alpine county. The county probably has more bears than people. In Markleeville I ate a late lunch at a cafe, sharing a table with two motorcyclists from Placerville. Most of the customers were motorcyclists.
After a long rest I left Markleeville at 2:30. The road climbs steadily to the little town of Woodfords. The surroundings are mostly forested, so I didn't have many views of the mountains. After Woodfords the road climbs with an 8-10% grade along the Carson river, west into a strong headwind. I climbed halfway up Luther Pass before turning into the Kit Carson campground at 7000 feet elevation. I stayed at this campground on a tour in 2000. $14, with pit toilets. I made my own shower.
Today was a huge climbing day but it helped to start well-rested. Fortunately the major climb offered great views to keep me going. The weather was mostly sunny with a high of 85F.
Distance: 54.3 mi (87 km)
Climbing: 5479 ft (1660 m)
Average speed: 8.4 mph (13.4 km/h)
Max speed: 43 mph (69 km/h)
Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 1,214 miles (1,954 km)
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