July 21, 2009
Day 12: To Vickers hot spring
I got on the road at 7:35. Once again the morning was sunny and warm. After a few miles on the 101 freeway the bike route exits onto Rincon road closer to the coast, with light traffic.
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I passed several county beach parks where the top of the bluff was all paved, rented out to motor homes. It brings in a lot of revenue, but it results in an ugly, urbanized beach park. If that's what the beach parks look like now, I'm happy to leave the coast for good.
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Ventura is where I leave the coast. I have no desire to pedal through the congested Los Angeles-San Diego megalopolis (I did it once).
I detoured into charming downtown Ventura to do chores. To the post office to mail the book home. Laundromat, lunch, groceries. At 1PM I headed north towards Ojai on Ventura avenue, parallel with the highway 33 expressway.
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The east side of Ventura is the oil patch. I saw oil service companies, pumping oil wells, active drilling rigs, and abandoned tank farms. But it didn't take long to get out to unspoiled countryside.
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On the edge of town I noticed a bike trail parallel to Ventura avenue. I got on the trail, assuming correctly that it goes to Ojai. The bike trail passes through a large county park along 4-inch deep Ventura creek. That's a major creek in southern California. I rode the bike trail upstream for 15 scenic miles. It was nice to stay off busy hwy 33. A steady ocean breeze blows up the valley, but it gets gradually warmer as I go inland. 75F in Ventura, at least 90F in Ojai, 20 miles inland.
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On the edge of Ojai I got on highway 33 briefly, then turned left towards Meiners Oaks to avoid going through the town of Ojai. When I connect back to highway 33 I'm in the country and starting to climb out of the valley. But now it has very little traffic. It's a road to nowhere.
A few miles from Ojai I turned left on Matilja Creek road and pedaled upstream. At first the road climbs an extremely steep grade to go around a dam. I walked the bike a quarter mile. But then the road goes gently upstream along Matilja creek. I free-camped near Vickers hot spring. The main pool was 101F, adjacent to the surprisingly warm 83F creek. My pictures didn't really capture the beauty of the setting.
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I soaked in the hot spring until past midnight. Many people came and went. Many more people came and went while I was trying to sleep. On Tuesday night at a hot spring not listed in guidebooks.
This tour began with 11 days on the Pacific coast bike route, the Disneyland of bicycle touring routes. Now I begin the inland chapter of the tour which will have less traffic, warmer temperatures, and more climbing. I won't see other touring cyclists and there won't be any hiker/biker campsites. In other words, back to normal.
Distance: 44.0 mi (70.4 km)
Climbing: 2200 ft (667 m)
Average speed: 9.5 mph (15.2 km/h)
Max speed: 29 mph (46.4 km/h)
Hiking: 2 mi (3.2 km)
Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 530 miles (853 km)
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