June 12, 2016
Cycling bliss when it's least expected: Villefort to Ales
This tour is starting to get to me. I have refused to make allowances for my age or for my physical condition, believing that if I just work harder the aches and pains will vanish of their own accord. But today, I wanted to take it easy. Not quit, exactly, but take a little judicious help in the form of a train ride to Ales, which would allow me to continue the journey with out reneging on my goals. But it was not to be. France is once more in the throes of a labor crisis, and the railways are on strike. So the station agent in Villefort told me there would not be any trains for a while yet. Not wanting to return to the hotel I just left, I gritted my teeth and rode back up the 10% grade I had coasted down the night before. Imagine my pleasure to find that the top of the grade gave onto a long flat highway running along the flancs of the mountains "en corniche" as it is said in French. I just flew along in the morning sunlight. Touring just doesn't get any better!
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Rounding the last corner of the corniche route, I found myself descending easily among a group of riders all with numbers on their jerseys. I was in the middle of a race! And best of all, most of the riders passing me said "Bon jour" or offered words of encouragement. Very cool! Of course when I got to the foot of the hill and began the next climb the banter died off, as every one was working too hard going up. There was a refreshment stand for the racers at the top of the climb, the col de Portes (553 msl), and I stopped to take some pictures and chat with some hikers who were watching the race go by.
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The road divided shortly after the col, and ther racers went left, while I went right. For them there was doubtless more climbing, while for me it was mostly downhill into Ales. I was still feeling tired, so I got a hotel, and went out in search of lunch. A salad and two beers later, I watched the street demonstration going on in support of the strikers.
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I found a nice restaurant for supper, a grilled dorade with veggies, and then to bed.
Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 637 km (396 miles)
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