Day 71: Silverthorne to Hartsel, CO; New BAR, 9th and Final Continental Divide Crossing

September 10, 2015

Notes:

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2.) Climbing Today: 3,389 ft -- Total So Far; 169,480 ft

3.) Average Speed While Biking Today: 12.9 mph

4.) Mechanical Issues Today: none

5.) Miles Remaining to Canon City: about 59

6.) Miles Traveled to Date on This Half of the Journey: 1938

7.) Money Found Today: 0

8.) Total Money Found: $1.10 (Will I find enough to buy a cup of coffee?)

9.) Former BAR (Bicycle Altitude Record): 9,683 Feet, Willow Creek Pass

New BAR Set Today: 11,539 Feet, Hoosier Pass

I was up early this morning. Nothing unusual about that, but today was to be different. Today I needed to climb Hoosier Pass, the highest point on the Transam route, the 9th and final time I would cross the Continental Divide, and the last significant obstacle before I could complete the journey in Canon City. Hoosier Pass is 2,000 feet higher than I had been on this journey, and the altitude itself could be a factor. In the distant past of my youth, I hiked up several of Colorado’s 14,000+ foot peaks, but that was many years ago and I wasn’t carrying a 105 pound load with me. So I was anxious to commence today’s journey and put this final challenge behind me.

I rolled out of Silverthorne and immediately began a steep climb into Dillon and onto Dillon Dam Road. Here’s a view of the sleeping metropolis below;

My first challenge was to keep from getting lost, and I failed that test. The route uses a bike path that winds through Silverthorne, Dillon, and Frisco before heading towards Breckenridge parallel to Highway 9. But the path abruptly ends at places in Frisco near the Dillon reservoir, and the few folks I encountered in the early morn didn’t know how to get to the path to Breckenridge. Frustrated, I decided to just ride up Highway 9 until I spotted the path, but I didn’t know where Highway 9 was either. I located a busy mini-mart type store and found a local who told me that the busy road in front of me became Highway 9 later. Duh!!

So I rode up the highway a bit, and once I got to Main street in Frisco I was able to get back onto the ACA map instructions. Bike paths are designed as recreational trails and aren't always useful as practical transportation alternatives. Unlike roadways, bike paths have little to no signage providing travelers with directional information. On a bicycle tour, I generally don’t like bike paths for this reason.

Once I finally got on the path to Breckenridge, the ride was nice. The path paralleled the highway and allows for an easy low-stress alternative to the highway. I did like that aspect of it. The Blue River flows beside the path.

Typical View of The Blue River Between Frisco and Breckenridge

I reached a good stopping point and called in to Bike Control for clearance to ascend Hoosier Pass.

Me; “Bike Central, Harvey-1 is a loaded Surly Long Haul Trucker. Request permission for ascent of Hoosier Pass. Ride plan commences at Frisco with intermediate stop at Breckenridge before final ascent.”

Bike Control; “Harvey-1, you are cleared for ascent of Hoosier Pass with stopover in Breckenridge. Squawk code BR-549, maintain VFR. No adverse weather expected along your route. Our records show this will be a new BAR for you. Be advised that others have reported the need for supplemental oxygen.”

Me; “Roger that, Control. Harvey-1 is not equipped with supplemental oxygen, but we don’t anticipate the need for it. Our emergency evac plan calls for a rapid descent to oxygen-rich altitudes if necessary.”

Bike Control; “Best of luck Harvey-1, ascend at will, there’s no other reported bike traffic at this time.”

And so we began the ascent in earnest. The climb to Breckenridge on the bike path was simply pleasurable; we flew along at 8-10 mph and barely even noticed that we were climbing. My EMP for today included stopping in Breckenridge for “second breakfast,” and as we entered town we rolled past a bike shop and one of the employees was getting out rental bikes to display for the tourist crowd, so I asked him for a breakfast café recommendation. He steered me to a place that wouldn’t be too crowded where I had a great breakfast, then Harvey and I hit the road again. But I got a little confused leaving town, so I stopped at another bike shop and asked directions. Several tourists there had just rented bikes to ride down the trail to Frisco and then return, and they were concerned about having to pedal back up the trail to Breckenridge. “Folks,” I said, “I’ve just ridden my 105 pound loaded touring bike up the trail from Frisco. It was easy!” I hope I didn’t mislead them, it certainly seemed easy to me, but then again I had almost completed a bike journey across the U.S. so I might have a tilted opinion of what "easy" means. Breckenridge isn’t my kind of place, it’s way too touristy and overpriced, so I was glad to leave it and commence climbing again. Soon Harvey and I found ourselves in BAR territory.

At This Altitude, I Established a New BAR With Each Stroke Of The Pedals

Our current BAR was 9,658 feet and we had now exceeded that, so every turn of the pedals put us at a new record. While I was turning the pedals, the aspens were just now beginning to turn colors.

Approaching Breckenridge, The Aspens Were Just Beginning To Turn Color

I could see snow on the peaks.

You know you are getting high when you find yourself adjacent to fourteeners.

Hoosier Pass was only 4 miles away, and I had yet to even barely notice that we were climbing. The signage had been decorated.

The Hoosier Pass Summit Sign Had Been Decorated

It was beautiful up in the higher elevations.

Cautious that I might be getting overconfident, I resorted to playing the “mile game.” I cycled one mile at a time, then stopped for a brief break. Ascending higher towards the pass, one encounters a series of moderately steep switchbacks.

I Could Do The Curve Thing, But I Couldn't Maintain 10 mph

I could do the curvy thing, but I couldn’t maintain 10 mph on the steep portions. Oh wait a minute; I didn’t have to keep a 10 mph speed, the sign said to go no faster than 10 mph. So yeah then, I could do that. I was not feeling any effect from the altitude, and the climb hadn’t been that hard. I couldn’t believe it was going to be this easy, but it was. Approaching the summit I saw my friend Daniel Wolf waving at me and I realized I had surpassed the last real test of this journey. So here’s the glory photo of my 9th crossing of the Continental Divide and new Bicycle Altitude Record (BAR);

Hoosier Pass Was My 9th and Final Crossing of The Continental Divide. Friend Daniel Wolf Met Me At The Summit

What you can't see in this photo is the overwhelming sense of joy I was experiencing; for the first time since I left the Atlantic Coast in early May, I was confident that I would finish the continental crossing! Daniel lives in Denver and drove up to meet me at the summit. He brought a tire pump and other tools along in case I needed them; what a guy! We chatted a bit and then left to find some lunch in Alma. Alma brags about being the highest incorporated city.

Alma Boasts Of Being The Highest Incorporated City

In Colorado, being the “highest” of anything can have two meanings. Enjoying lunch at a coffee shop, Daniel and I talked about a lot of things. We share a common bond since we understand the struggle, effort, and hardship required to cross America by bicycle. I met Daniel in Virginia on the 2nd day of the first half of my journey, and our paths crossed many times during the next several weeks. Throughout Missouri, Kansas, and Colorado until I reached my stopping point at Canon City, he and James Filmer and I occasionally shared accommodations including RV parks, motels, and guest lodges. We experienced the crazy-steep Appalachians and Ozarks, we were rained on in Missouri, we dealt with the oppressive Kansas heat and wind, we dodged the late afternoon Colorado showers, and we got through all of it. Daniel and James continued on and completed an east-to-west crossing while I had to return home and work a couple of months. Now, I was nearly complete on my “both ends to the middle” crossing. I had to cycle the 2nd half without the company of other cyclists, and it was harder to do so; but when the going got tough I kept telling myself that Daniel and James had done it and I could too.

I’ve never been a soldier, so I can’t understand the bond that soldiers feel toward each other. But I think that when people undergo the same hardships and face the same magnitudinal challenges, they develop a bond that others who haven’t faced these challenges can’t understand. And so it is with those of us who have ridden the Transamerica Trail. I know that anyone who has done this has surmounted some daunting obstacles along the way, and I respect them for having made it through. Daniel was in school now to obtain certification as a teacher and plans to teach secondary school science, preferably chemistry. I know that whatever he does in life he will apply the same grit and drive to accomplishing it as he did in crossing America on bicycle. After lunch, we said our goodbyes and wished each other luck, then Harvey and I rolled on.

I hadn’t noticed any USBRS signs in Colorado until I saw this sign in Fairplay.

This Is The Only USBRS Signage I Saw in Colorado

Leaving Fairplay, I was traveling downstream along the Middle Fork of the South Platte River. Here’s a typical valley scene;

Middle Fork Of The South Platte River, Valley Scene

My destination tonight was Hartsel, and I was going to stay at the Hartsel Springs Guest Lodge 2 miles outside of town. When I arrived, I met Scott, who manages the place. It’s a beautiful lodge, and was originally owned by Sam Hartsel, a famous Colorado rancher in the 1800’s. Scott told me that I had the entire lodge to myself tonight, and he showed me around the facility and gave me full use of the kitchen. He then left me for the night. Here’s a shot of my room;

My Room At The Hartsel Springs Guest Lodge

And here’s a view of the sitting area just outside my room;

And these co-joined chairs are “brokers chairs” that Sam Hartsel imported from the London Stock Exchange;

These Are "Broker Seats" And Were Imported From England By Sam Hartsel

The Hartsel Lodge ran into some financial troubles during the dark days of 2008; does anyone remember the financial disaster of the Bush administration that wrecked the country’s economy? The lodge is currently owned by the bank, and they would like to sell it. This would be a great opportunity for the right person.

I was tired, but very excited. Tomorrow is THE day. At least, it should be, if nothing goes wrong. One thing I have learned about bicycle touring is that things can and do go wrong and that you should expect the unexpected. Good night all...

Today's ride: 61 miles (98 km)
Total: 4,235 miles (6,816 km)

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