May 9, 2015
Day 4: Greenwood Campground to the Cookie Lady's House in Afton
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(Note to readers regarding the elevation profiles; the profile is calculated from Point "A" on the map to Point "B" on the map. Since I am traveling east to west on the first half of this transcontinental journey, my route of travel is usually shown on the map as being from right to left. However, the elevation profile is shown from left to right, so it must be "reversed" in your head to understand it.)
Climbing Today; 802 ft -- Total So Far; 7,412 ft
I awoke to a heavy dew covering the tent, and went up the hill to the camp's laundromat to do a couple of day's worth of clothes. I had enough change to run the washer, but to my dismay there was no change machine and I needed coins for the dryer. The camp's store/headquarters didn't open till 8:00 a.m., and it was only 6:30 - I try to get an early start before the sun takes over. Disappointed, I headed back to my tent, and ate 1/2 of the can of peaches for breakfast. I then fired up my jetboil stove for the first time and enjoyed a hot chocolate in the cool morning. So I now know that my stove works - I would have hated carrying it this far up the hills if it didn't work.
A family near me in an RV was getting out and about, and they were curious about me being on a bicycle, so we chatted. They kept quarters in their RV to use for laundry, and gave me 6 for the dryer - they insisted on giving them to me even though I tried to give them dollar bills in exchange. So the kindness of strangers helped me get things done and get underway that morning. And that's not the last time I will benefit from kind strangers, as you will see later.
I headed out on my short but intense journey for the day. It was going to be intense because the last couple of miles consists of a steep climb up to Afton. I intended to spend the night at the Cookie Lady's house in Afton and attack the climb up the Blue Ridge early the next morn, so a short day seemed in order. Besides, the last 3 days had taken a toll on me and I really needed some rest before taking on the first really significant challenge of this trip. The early morning fog hung overhead and obscured the view of the Blue Ridge; I was glad not to see it, as its presence was rather bullying. I imagined it glowering at me as though to say "you lowly pathetic little animal, how dare you think that you are strong enough to ascend my heights!"
As expected, the climb to Afton was indeed a steep one. A local cycling club on lightweight road bikes passed me as I was struggling up the hill on my 100+ pound loaded bike, and I watched with envy as they slowly pulled away and disappeared. I pulled over immediately after cresting the final grade into town, snorting and breathing like a dying animal. It was good to know that this was just the beginning of the climb up the Blue Ridge, I joked to myself. And then I was surprised by how quickly I came upon the Cookie Lady's house.
The Cookie Lady is no longer with us. But when she was, she offered cookies to weary cyclists as they made their way up the Blue Ridge. And she let them stay at this house, which she inherited when her uncle passed away about 1977.
I had spoken with Hope, the house's caretaker, the night before and she had arranged to leave the place unlocked for my arrival. So I entered, picked out a couch for the night, and "set up camp" inside. I knew of others that were coming to stay the night also. The place is very rundown, there is no shower or bath and the only sink is in the kitchen, but there is a restroom. Hey; water, a restroom, a roof overhead, and a couch to sleep on; it's good lodging for a cyclist and I'm not complaining. The place is a shrine to the Cookie Lady as thousands of cyclists worldwide have benefited from her kindness and left tokens of appreciation.
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After settling in and enjoying some tuna fish straight from the can and a peanut butter sandwich on a hot dog bun (hot dog buns packed easier in my panniers than bread would) I was surprised when a group of 11 cyclists entered to look around and get water. They were all part of an ACA group tour. They carried their own luggage like I did, but they moved as a group and had a group leader paid by the ACA. I had all my stuff laid out on a couch and was sorting things when they arrived, and after they left I had a panic attack because I couldn't find my route map. During the few minutes that it was "lost" I realized how important those maps are; without them I would have to travel major roads instead of the scenic backroads. The map was simply beneath some clutter, but I was a very happy camper once I found it. Shortly after the group departed, I met Kristen and Meggan. These 2 young ladies are from Tennessee and are undertaking the same cross-country trip as the rest of us bicycling gypsies.
Kristen and Meggan filled their water bottles and left, but I would see them again. Later in the evening, Daniel showed up. I knew he was coming, and I thought Dana and Mckayla were also coming, but not so as they had opted for a rest day. However, Daniel arrived with the 2 young men who had showed up late at the Mineral VFD campsite 2 days earlier. Josh and Dan (not to be confused with Daniel) are both from Kentucky, and are also attempting the Transam. They arrived with little to no food, having thought there would be a store nearby - not so. So I shared some snack food and some hot dog buns and peanut butter with them. I was delighted to have someone to give it to, cause I was trying to lighten my load for tomorrow's climb. We chatted a bit, then everyone turned in early. Josh, Dan, and I plan to rise at 5:00 and commence the climb early. Daniel is coming from Colorado (Mountain Time) and 5:00 a.m. Eastern Time is a bit too early for him to rise, so he will depart later than us. Preparations for an early departure were completed, then it was off to bed at 9:00 p.m. for me. The Cookie Lady's house is adjacent to the roadway, and the occasional night traffic and anticipation of tomorrow's challenge made for fitful sleep...
Today's ride: 6 miles (10 km)
Total: 235 miles (378 km)
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