April 24, 2023
Fushë-Milot to Shëngjin
After checking the weather last night I decided to research some backup, indoor, accommodation options. When I found a 1 bedroom apartment for €20, and looked ahead to the forecast, I just booked it. I'm very grateful for that decision as we sit here warm and dry watching the ocean while the rain lashes against the window outside, instead of in the tent as initially planned.
Tobias woke at 5am again, although at least this morning he could be coaxed back to sleep until a more reasonable 6:30. Not that I managed to get anymore proper sleep. Getting packed up with a toddler is hard. I'm hoping he gets used to it as we get into more of a rhythm, but he gets extra clingy during packing so it's always juggling doing morning stuff, hanging out with him, and getting the stuff organised. It is probably a bit freaky, constantly moving and not knowing where you are going. He has his own backpack with toys which he packs, and it's his job to put the drink bottles on the bikes. We need to find him a few more things that he can do so he's not just worrying about us leaving him behind.
So despite the early wake up, we weren't on the road until 9:30. We backtracked on the highway and back to the road we were following yesterday which we would stay on for most of the day. Again we rode through lots of quiet villages at the foot of the hills. We forgot about stray dogs so got a bit caught out by the first pack of 3 that chased us down the road. We've been chased a few more times, but they've never gotten too close. Tobias thinks all dogs are friendly and great like Bess and Benji (family dogs in NZ) and asks if he can pat them, even when they are definitely angry barking. We've also spotted 2 squashed snakes on the road.
We stopped for a coffee in Spiten and spotted another cyclist heading the other way, but he didn't stop. James had a chat with the owner while I walked Tobias up the street to try and expend some energy. The road was quiet until suddenly we came into the chaotic town of Lezhë. We tried to follow the separated cycle path, but it seemed to have more function as extra car parking than for biking.
From Lezhë we turned off towards Shëngjin. It started spitting just as we arrived in town, and not having heard from our hosts about how to get into the apartment we scrambled to find something to eat undercover. I managed to call our host who hadn't yet seen our booking but was able to arrange the person to come and meet us. The address was different to what it was listed online, so I left Tobias with James and biked through town to find him. Eventually I found the right place and got the bike inside (there was a lift, but too short for a bike so I had to hold it upright with all the bags on). He gave me a very thorough tour, all while I was worrying about my tired child an hour past his nap time and how I could get him back here to bed. Finally installed, I left the bike inside and ran down the road to collect my family and get them inside and off to bed (Tobias that is).
Shëngjin is one of those beach resort towns with huge apartments lining the beach that is probably crazy busy during the summer, but feels like a ghost town in the off season, especially when it's cold and rainy. There is no water in the pools and most of the restaurants are closed. We still enjoyed a walk along the beach and down the spit in the afternoon. It would have been nicer if it wasn't for all the rubbish spread everywhere. Maybe it gets cleaned up in the summer? Tobias is very much into putting things in rubbish bins (even things that aren't rubbish) so he keeps pointing it out saying "oh oh, bin".
We got a few groceries and takeaway pizzas for dinner. People are so friendly to Tobias which is mostly great, but tonight he got given one lollipop at the first shop we went to which we said he could have. The next shop gave him 2 lollipops (we pried them out of his hand when he wanted to ride his bike) and then the pizza guy gave him a sugary sweet drink (disappeared into the bag). I hope we can politely minimise his sugar intake.
The weather is looking like it will rain as we bike tomorrow, so we've decided to stick with staying indoors until it improves. All going well we should make it to Shkodër a bit soggy tomorrow, but then dry out over the next few days.
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Today's ride: 27 km (17 miles)
Total: 344 km (214 miles)
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