May 29, 2023
Bled to Kranjska Gora
Everyone was in better spirits getting away this morning so it felt earlier, but somehow we still didn't get riding until after 10. Then we all got a bit grumpy trying to get into bled because there was a big sign that said the bike path was closed. There was a detour, but it was quite a bit further. We have about 50:50 success on just riding through detours, but James is ever the optimist so we pushed on up. At the top of the hill the bike lane was most definitely closed and the only available road was very busy and definitely had a no bikes sign on it at the bottom of the hill. But we didn't feel like going back down so we waited 5 minutes to cross and turn right then pedaled furiously so we were keeping up with traffic. It worked for us, but we felt bad for the family that had to turn back with their little kids. It wouldn't have been a small effort for them biking up the hill in the first place, but the traffic was very heavy and the road very narrow.
After all that we stopped in bled at a big supermarket then carried on our route and bypassed the whole town. It was better to be away from the madness. It was very muggy and hot, and we were steadily climbing. James had a headache and no amount of hydration seemed to fix it. We found a good shady spot to stop for a snack by a bouldering wall built in a wee hut built like the hay sheds here.
From there we headed into the Radovna valley. If I hadn't been reading other journals I probably would have just taken the long distance cycle route that follows the valley through Jesenice, but an account from Susan Carpenter (here) convinced me to go this way instead. It was a beautiful route and I'm glad we did. There were barely any cars, lots of bikes, and the wildflowers are still stunning. We branched off down a forestry road for some lunch (and of course some stone throwing) then carried on climbing. It's about the first time this trip that we've done gradual, not so steep, climbing. It was great! Short lived though, but we knew we were going to round a corner any minute to a very steep climb. Sure enough, 18% gradient which looks just like a wall. We spent the steep part of the climb being pursued by 2 road cyclists, but we actually managed to hold them off okay. I guess we have very tiny gears and we can't go so slow or we will fall over. We got chatting (once we'd reached the top of the steep stuff) to the British couple who were over here for a spot of road cycling. They had done lots of trips with their 3 kids on the bikes and they said they all grew up okay. He is actually training for a triathlon that he is doing with some of his kids.
We bid them farewell at the bottom of the hill with 10km left to ride. Tobias was awake but happy enough in the trailer so we pushed on up the gradual incline. We did have to stop when we saw a sign for craft beer. It looked very very closed, but when James poked his head in a very friendly lady came out so we stopped. The beer is brewed by her son at their place. I think it was more a takeaway kind of thing, but she pulled up chairs for us so we sat in their garden and enjoyed a really nice beer. Her son will have a child in September and she seems like she was ready to have a grandchild about 5 years ago the way she doted on Tobias. We told him that she was going to be a grandma, like his Nan Ann. He seems most comfortable around older women and almost immediately walked off into the garden to find the cat and pick flowers even though she didn't speak much English at all. I think we may have confused him a bit because he said "bye bye Nan Ann" when we left.
From there it was just another 6km on a bike path that was completely separate from the highway so you didn't even hear the cars. Every now and then I'd look left and be surprised by the huge mountains out there. We are staying at camp spik, even more expensive than last night but slightly more spacious. It has a stunning view of what we presume is mount spik. Triglav should be somewhere behind there but invisible for now. There is also another cycle touring family staying across from us. They have a 2 and a half year old and are taking a month long trip. They have a similar set up with the trailer, front seat, and his balance bike. We have seen a fair few cycle tourists, but not so many with a toddler in tow so it's fun to compare notes. They are also having a rest day here tomorrow before taking on Vršič pass on Wednesday.
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Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 1,184 km (735 miles)
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