August 15, 2023
To Loos
A very easy day
Ken went to the Menen Gate again last night before we ate in the main square. I thought I would give you a view of the alternative Iepre
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It’s a bumpy ride along cobbles to get out of Iepre. The town is mostly surrounded by a moat and we followed it around to the Lille gate where we left the town. Our first target today was Messines and for the first time on this tour we were doing some climbing. Messines was an important place for the NZ army in World War 1 and it was here our good and very respected friend Frank Morgan was so badly wounded. He had half his face blown off and if his cousin had not seen him move he would have been left for dead. Frank was taken to England where he had pioneering plastic surgery by the New Zealander Sir Harold Gillies. Frank did not regain his previous good looks but he lived a great life as a farmer in Central Otago dying at ripe old age. He was a fine man. As a teenager I had many happy holidays staying on his farm with my good friend Jan who was Frank’s niece, I always think of him as Uncle Frank. The New Zealand effort in Messines is well commemorated in the main market square there is a statue of a NZ soldier, there is a street named after the country, a memorial to the fallen and an excellent museum. It was only 9am so the museum wasn’t open and more importantly none of the cafes were open.
Riding down from Messines the view is terrific and it makes you so aware of how important in war ‘gaining the high ground was’
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We went over a bridge and a lady said ‘Bonjour’ - we were in France. Being in France makes life a bit easier. I speak NO Dutch or Flemish but do have a little French though I do I often have to say ‘Je parle seulement une peu Francaise’ or ‘Je ne comprende pas’. Our route took us through wonderful French countryside on tiny roads as well as the usual crops there was rhubarb and lots of different vegetables. Loos is on the edge of the big city of Lille and we were somewhat concerned about what the route to the hotel would be like. It was fine. First along the massive canal then on fairly empty suburban streets to the hotel. It was only midday but they let us check straight in. Still in our cycling clothes we went for lunch. There was a restaurant next door. As seems to be becoming a habit it was highly inappropriate for our needs, in fact the English next to us had stopped there particularly on their drive to the Champagne Region because they are foodies. We had a beautiful meal of fish and will have something in the room tonight
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Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 760 km (472 miles)
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Comment on this entry | Comment | 2 |
Just reading Lindsey Fitzharris “ The Facemaker”, about Gillies’ work on WW1 soldiers with facial injuries. Uncle Frank was fortunate to survive and get to his hospital. Such tragic stories.
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