October 1, 2022
Huisseau-sur-Cosson to Amboise
Routing lessons
In the morning we strike out on breakfast in the village of Huisseau-sur-Cosson. Lesson learned, always order the breakfast where you're staying if its offered.
We have not one but two chateaux on the docket - Cheverny and Chaumont-sur-Loire. Maybe it will be one more castle than strictly necessary for one day; we'll see how it goes. I punted on today's course, tired of constantly messing with my phone. Rather than planning a route on RidewithGPS as usual I just punched in quick bike directions on Google Maps. What could go wrong?
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Quiet rural roads are interspersed with the occasional bike path. A few drivers passing us are patient, as they have been for much of the trip. It's all very enjoyable, even in the rain.
An hour into the day in the village of Cheverny we find a bakery with inside seating. Another pain au chocolat? Yes please.
Fortified with quiche, pastries and coffee, we're ready for a tour of Chateau Cheverny. The stately mansion has been in the Hurault family for more than six centuries. Their descendants still live in a wing of the castle. Unlike Chambord, this mansion is sumptuously furnished, with decorative painting by the the 17th century painter Jean Monier.
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It's a hunting lodge famous for their hounds, but the dogs are out of sight today. We enjoy a stroll through the gardens and the maze.
Back on the trail, we come to a dirt road. It looks a little soft from all the rain and it gets squishier the farther we go. I hope there isn't too much more of this.
A few miles further there's another kilometer or so of riding/walking through a muddier field. They need the rain here but it's a tough go in the soft ground. I'm in deep regret about the slap-dash routing.
As we get close to the Loire there's a short, steep drop in elevation. Downhills are great but since my front brake has been inoperable since yesterday it's a little tense.
In Chaumont-sur-Loire, there are no restaurants open for lunch and we are no longer excited about touring the castle here, just ready to wrap up this day. Turns out two castles is more than we need on top of a long ride.
I'm hopeful about the rest of the route along the Loire to Amboise. Surely that will be paved with all the tourists who come through here.
Alas, nope. Barry's rear tire flats on the muddy gravel track as the rain picks up again.
Finally in Amboise, we ride by the royal castle and are cheered to see the sun, civilization and a row of restaurants on the pedestrian square. We enjoy a delicious dinner of local roast lamb and wine and settle in to our AirBnb apartment for a three day stay.
Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 342 km (212 miles)
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