June 2, 2008 to June 3, 2008
To Poitiers
Leaving Loches, we faced a long 60 mile day riding south to Chauvigny. It could have been considerably shorter taking a more direct route, but I wanted to swing by Saint-Sevin-Sur-Gartempe on the way to visit the renowned 12th century Romanesque abbey church there. A UNESCO world heritage site, it is referred to as ‘the Romanesque Sistine Chapel’ for the well preserved murals on its barrel vault ceiling.
Given that we went well out of the way to see this church and that it’s such an impressive sight, it’s discouraging that I have only one poor photo and scarcely remember it at all.
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An hour later we came to Chauvigny, a great overnight stop which I do remember clearly. The St-Pierre church there is another Romanesque wonder, of about the same age as the one at Saint-Sevin. We spent a long time marveling at the colorful capitals and columns of its recently restored interior, as well as admiring the town as a whole with its dramatic castle ruins and views across the river Vienne.
As impressive as the town and monuments are though I remember at least as clearly the falconry and wildlife park housed in the castle ruins, and watching owls and raptors released to fly across the castle and river before returning to their handlers.
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At about the time we took this tour, I sat in the office next to the division’s financial manager. I haven’t thought of Mike for years, but I remember him best for envying the fact that he had lived in Poitiers, France for a year. He loved Poitiers, and I had wanted to see the city ever since hearing him describe it so lovingly.
Well, we went to Poitiers, briefly. It’s only ten miles west of Chauvigny, by the busy main road. We took the slow route of course, rolling over a few modest hills, but it was still only fifteen miles. We arrived there mid-morning sometime.
We didn’t go to Poitiers to see the city though, for reasons that seem poor in retrospect. It must have seemed too close to Chevigny to make sense as an overnight on a fixed-length tour, I imagine. Poitiers was the end of the northern half of our tour, and we went there to catch the train south to Brive-en-Gaillard. We arrived about an hour before our train departure, and only had time for a brief glance inside the while we waited.
I’m sure Mike was right, and that Poitiers is well worth a visit. If we ever go back, we’ll stay overnight and see for ourselves.
Ride stats (2 days): 79 miles, 4,000’; for the tour: 737 miles, 23,500’
Today's ride: 79 miles (127 km)
Total: 664 miles (1,069 km)
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