Leaving Bordeaux (for now, anyway)

June 17, 2018

The railway is on strike today so options for getting out of the city are limited. I could of course ride out, but I'm feeling rather tired and I have decided to take it easy today. A quick glance in at the station tells me that there will be one train to Perigueux this morning so I get a ticket. To while away the time before the train leaves, I ride across the river and get some photos of the sailing vessels without the crowds to block the view.

The Russian ship Kruzhenstern, largest sailing vessel still sailing in the world.

The train was packed. There were more bicycles than places to put them, and among those two were fully loaded touring bikes, mine and one belonging to a chap that gave the controllers fits because he didn't have a ticket, didn't have a passport and didn't speak French. His bike was loaded with two panniers that were overflowing, assorted shopping bags tied on with bits of rope, a spare tire, and a nonfunctional gps. They wrote him up for travelling illegally, but chances are nothing will come of it.

The train slowly emptied out as the stations went past. There were only twenty or so people on board by the time we got to Perigueux and we all left the train quickly. I found the signs for the centre-ville and rode off looking for the tourist office.

Before I got a hundred meters, I came upon ruins of the third century Roman wall, constructed from the remains of the buildings the Vandals had destroyed.

And the ruins of the medieval castle constructed from the remains of the Roman wall.

I didn't find the tourist office right away, but did get a room in a hotel. I changed into civilian clothing and went in search of lunch, a salad again.

After lunch, I got to the tourist office and got a map of the city. Surprise! Today was the national day for archaeology and the entrance to the museums was free. I would have gone anyway, but it was a nice, especially as I am slightly fanatical about Roman history. Walking to the museum, I passed the ruins of a Gallic/Roman temple to the goddess Vesunna, protectrice of the ancient city.

He gap in the wall is where the 14 meter tall doors once sat.

The museum it self covers the site of one of the most important houses or domus in the ancient city. It's several acres in extent and includes baths, a swimming pool, a garden with a circular fountain, and several dining and reception rooms.

In the second century this building was at its most elegant. It had glass windows, underfloor heating, and indoor plumbing.

The romans enjoyed a very rich lifestyle excepting of course the slaves who made everything work. There was

Why the empire fell is still cause for academic debate, but the fall was spectacular. In the space of a single lifetime, all the luxury of the domus was lost. The coming of the Vandals and Sueves in the second and third centuries caused the Roman population to seek shelter in hastily built fortifications. The big houses ceased to be occupied and cramped cities with spartan living quarters emerged from the rubble, in the case of Vesunna, or Perigueux quite literally.

A few meters away from the ruined house the new city walls were constructed. There were originally no windows, of course. Those were added in later centuries.

Fortunately for me, civilization is back, and I could go for a good supper. No visit to the Périgord would be complete without a stroll through the medieval city.

and sunlight glinting off leaded glass windows.

And, of course no visit would be complete without a Perigordine dinner.

Foie gras on toast with fig and cherry jelly and a glass of Monbazillac.

Canard à la Parmentier. Went very well with a nice Bergerac (red) wine.

Today's ride: 7 km (4 miles)
Total: 763 km (474 miles)

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