Day 38: Fussen to Oberammergau

June 6, 2014

We took a bit of time finding just the right way out of Fussen, to head us back toward Schwangau and not around the lake or to Hohenschwangau. But soon enough we had a last look back at this small town that we had really enjoyed. we were then basically retracing the bus trip we had done yesterday. One difference was that this time we passed through the centre of Schwangau, which revealed a lot of "Bavarian style" houses, with second floor balconies and flower boxes. Last year, heading from Passau to the Bodensee, the appearance of this type of house was quite sudden, and I could put my finger on just when/where it happened. This time they have kind of snuck up on us, but now they are everywhere.

This gives an idea of how to value the breakfast when included with a gasthaus stay. We never get champagne, though.

Another of the typical chalet style Bavarian buildings

Now as in the few past days as well, we are really cycling in the alpine meadow environment. It's a matter of broad valleys with tall mountains on the sides, green green grass, little huts, balconied houses, and of course the Brown Swiss cows with bells. Of course, we have mountains in Canada too, but this combination - based on the alpine meadows - is quite unique to here. And it is unspeakably gorgeous!

Something that was speakable, in fact that caused some swearing, was the path for a good part of the day. We had expected hills, and in fact went up and down these with no grief - more absorbed by the beautiful landscape. But the path turned to gravel and then to quite loose gravel. Not only did that make it harder to climb the hills, but it made it hard to descend as well. In two places the gravel was crossed by streams - just a few inches deep - no big deal - but still a bug.

This section of our route is actually a part of the Bodensee-Konigssee Radweg, which we intend to use to come back through Fussen and on to the Bodensee later in the tour. The rough trail has us possibly rethinking this part of our future route.

We passed within three km of the Wieskirche, and asked ourseleves, had we left visiting there until today, would we really have gone for the detour? We concluded that we would probably have swooped right by, so it was good that we had our visit yesterday. At a shady bench we spoke to six people on electric bikes, who live near Fussen. They had come up to visit the Wieskirche, something they seem to often do. As always, we think about how great it is to live on bike paths and near these great destinations. However in their turn, people like this often feel it is great to be going 5000 km sort of straight on, as we do.

The St Coloman church, like the Wies, also stands out in a field

Look at our pleasant path winding away, and well paved at this point.

This is the point at which we finally said goodbye for ever to the Romantische Strasse. It's been a blast!

Hello Bodensee-Konigsee? At this point the gravel is pretty rough!

Despite the mountains all around, the valleys are fairly flat, and all you have to do to get anywhere is to follow them. So we swung down the broad way past Altenau, and Unterammergau to Oberammergau. Tomorrow we will follow the same valley, past Ettal monastery and to Garmish-Partenkirchen. Although we arrived in Oberammergau quite early, we were tired from the bright sun and gravel path, and did not take the turn through the centre of the village. Still, we did see one or two of the painted houses that the place is famous for.

Oberammergau is also famous for a Passion Play, staged every ten years since the 30 Years War. That means they have done 41 of them. It is apparently a really major event, and just to tour the playhouse now, in an off year, costs something like 8.50. Oberammergau is also of course in the mountains, so skiing is a big thing here in winter. They also have a kind of luge ride down a side mountain. The luge in this case is a sort of car that runs on rails. I took a photo of a demo one by the Tourist Information.

Other than these bits, Oberammergau means for us a comfortable bit of grass at the camping just outside of town. It's one of those that brings in bread and rolls in the morning. We ordered a four-pack of Rosinenschnecke (raisin rolls). That's a good incentive for an early bedtime - which will happen as soon as I upload a few photos - coming!

p.s. A loud but musical clanging just signalled the passing of a long single file line of cows, led by the farmer, clearly on their way home to bed as well. So cool!

The type of luge used on rails on a run on a side mountain here.

The (we take it) famous house decorating style of Oberammergau.

Today's ride: 46 km (29 miles)
Total: 2,048 km (1,272 miles)

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