Day 14: Spay to Rudesheim (across from Bingen)

May 13, 2014

This was our day to cycle the middle part of the middle Rhine. It is probably the sweetest, easiest, most enchanting ride there is. From Koblenz to Bingen, it's one lovely town after another, and a constant succession of castles up on the hills. We counted them loosely, and came up with a couple of dozen. All along this bit, there is a constant supply of great little hotels, and probably a dozen organized campgrounds. This in a distance of 60 km. Are you getting this, Southern Tier?

You sort of can't tell the players without a program here. So below (when I succeed in posting) are three map sections that cover the area. If you tap or click on the picture you will get a larger version. Then, if necessary, you can also use the zoom feature of your browser, or in Windows control and scroll wheel.

Naturally we tried to photograph some (though not all!) of the towns, buildings, and castles. As best as I can I will try to say what they are, in captions.

The first thing on leaving our lovely (though not quite as fancy as the two previous) hotel was a look at the campground we did not stay at. It looked great. But at that point, stuffed with fresh buns, cheese, sausage, jam, veggies, and coffee from the hotel, it was hard to feel sorry for missing out on it.

Ravening day cyclists. Cyclists of all description aremuch thicker here than on the Mosel. The Rhine is a major north south corridor for through cyclists

Boppard is the next town after Spay, where we started. We could see the two towered church in advance, as a drawing on our map, and then the real thing swung into view. We entered the town and had a peek inside the church. Though not decorated in an over the top way, it was impressive. This is the church of St Severus, and it was built around the 12th -13th century. Across from the church, as is customary, was the market square, and city hall. One store on the side had windows filled with small figures and knick knacks. I snapped a couple of photos of that and we proceeded along. What had attracted us was the bakery on the other side of the square!

Since it was now up to an hour since breakfast, we felt something from the bakery would be in order. As we stood by our bikes near the outdoor tables, we attracted some people with the Usual Questions. It is a bit unusual to be asked the usual questions here, because there are so many cycle tourists all around. Still, our Canadian flags, multicoloured clothes, and goofy little loaded bikes stand out enough to attract some interest. Of these three factors, we would say the Canadian flags are the most significant. Thankfully, the Stephen Harper government has not yet succeeded in sullying our image in Europe, and everyone gives Canada the thumbs up.

From the position over at the bakery, Dodie noticed that the side of the store with all the figures in the window was emblazoned "Cuckoo Clock Centre". Now, despite having received a perfectly lovely cuckoo clock as a gift last year, after having whined about it for a year, I still seem to desire another one. In fact, the Black Forest leg of this tour was designed to swing through cuckoo clock central, just to see if there is one there with my name on it.

Dodie, bless her heart, pointed out the cuckoo clock sign to me. So I deserted her at the bakery and jogged over there. Inside was an extensive display, all made in the Black Forest. Cuckoo clock features are almost as numerous as the choices on bicycles. There are one day, one week, two week, and electronic movements, spinning dancers, wood choppers, rotating water wheels, etc. etc. in various house styles. Oh yes, and cuckoos. The prices ranged in this store up to 1500 euros, and that is not where the things actually top out. Clearly, some hard thinking will be in order on what features and what price I am talking about. We will wait until the actual Black Forest to decide, though no doubt the store in Boppard could turn out to have the best selection and be cheaper.

Some of the UQ people turned out to be choir members preparing to imminently be singing in the church. We could have, should have stayed to listen, but in fact we rushed off up the river.

St Severus church - two towers at Boppard

The cartoon version of the church on my map

This house on "Commercial Drive" in Boppard is for sale. Laurie - better than the "Blue" house?

Christians are often preoccupied with dragons.

The usual questions from an unusual group

All was quiet until the ever vigilant Dodie spied yet another cuckoo clock super store, in St Goar. This time, I did not go in, but just pressed my nose up against the window. Again it was a story of myriad clock designs and features. Thankfully, the prices were hidden on the window displays. Other windows of the same store contained large displays of Steiff stuffed animals and also Hummel figures. Dodie's German aunt Greta was very big on Hummel figures. Outside this store was also what they claimed to be the world's largest free hanging cuckoo clock. I jockeyed for position with some Chinese tourists for a shot of it. They lost "focus" in this contest, because they were also trying for a photo of me and my goofy bike.

The second cuckoo clock center of the day!

Claimed to be the world's largest free hanging cuckoo clock

Further up river we came upon a fellow sitting on a bench, by his bike. He stood out, because he was wearing the same multi-coloured Patagonia parka as us. It turned out to be Joe, of "Joe's Rhine Ride". (he said we can find the blog easily with Google). Joe had started at Andermatt (near the source) and will finish at Amsterdam (near the mouth). We learned that Joe is from Vermont, but has cycled all around Europe and the USA, including RAGBRAI 6 times. I asked him why such a powerful cyclist was here on the "bunny" route. Like us, he likes it! He also suggested that we try out the LEJOG - Land's End to John O Groats - i.e. end to end in England. He said it is not too hard. Do we believe that?

Joe recommends this recently published book

Near St Goar stands the famous Lorelei rock. The name refers to a murmuring sound caused by the current, but the legend is of a siren who lured sailors to founder their boat here. Check Google for the full story! At the actual site there is nothing to see - at all! Yet the tour busses (and Grampies) stop and shoot everything around. It's quite a scam - a story about a hill, and the hill begins to mint money! Actually the post cards we sent home from here do show a little mermaid-like statue, but we are not sure where this actually stands. Maybe somewhere hard to reach on the other side?

Asian tourists seem to cluster at the Loreley

We were amazed at how far we had not travelled by about 1:30, when we stopped to eat what we had squirrelled away from the last two breakfasts. No problem, though, since Bingen is not a tough objective. Once in town we found the signage confusing, but still noodled our way effectively to the car ferry across to Rudesheim. There are three campings in that vicinity.

Again with feeble signage but not much difficulty anyway, we made our way to the first camping. It had rained in the afternoon, but seemed to beholding off now, so we went for it. This time 18 euros bought the most luxurious camping we have seen. Dodie came back from the ladies and insisted I go get a shot of it. I couldn't find the men's right away, so I did have a crack at the ladies. Nothing perverted, you understand, I was outside the open door. Inside there was soft music and professional decor. The camping also had a camp store, with local wine for sale, plus cheese and other good food, and a nice selection of maps and camping supplies. And guess what, so far the rain has held off!

Even train tunnels here look like castles

Panaramic views are everywhere - this is near Oberwesel

Parts of the former wall still stands at Oberwesel

Kaub, a former toll house in the middle of the river

These tourists were taking pictures of everything, but mostly of their own tour bus.

The camp buildings are high quality and extensive

Men's washroom, actually comprised many large rooms.

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 835 km (519 miles)

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