Day 10: Grevenmacher, Luxembourg to Neumagen-Dhron, Germany

May 9, 2014

The rain has continued off and on, and was very heavy overnight. However we were quite well protected with our tent under the beer shelter.

This web site could be useful for renting a bike on this route

All campsites have an extensive level of recycling!

We soon were on our way again, the path usually following the river. The steep banks with vines image fell away a bit, and we did run in to some "ordinary" looking areas coming up to Trier.

At least we could not get lost, just following the river - or could we? When we reached Wasserbillig we had the entry of the Saar into the Mosel. So here we sail on - up the Saar. We carried on until Dodie said "Hey, this river is flowing the wrong way!". Duh. Actually we had not gone very far, so it was ok.

We left Luxembourg and entered Germany. We will now be in Germany for some time.

This is the local idea of a pickup truck? Not quite, but sure different from the USA

We could really see what our family in Yutz was talking about, when we went in to the Kaufland on the west side of Trier. Here was an amazing variety of super high quality foods, at prices that almost seemed a giveaway. I stood outside with the bikes while Dodie coped with making a sane selection from the huge variety. She said she was glad that I was outside, in case our operation would be bankrupted or weighed down impossibly by all the stuff I would want.

We crossed into the main part of Trier on what they call the Roman Bridge. I don't expect this bridge was actually 2000 years old, but it is likely that there has been a bridge in that spot for that long. The Roman legacy is in any event very prominent in this area. We would soon come to the Porta Nigra, a large rather black ancient city gate at the other end of the city.

Our first stop, though, was the Karl Marx birth house and museum, which is on ... Karl Marx strasse. We knew we would find it on that street, but the giveaway as to which house was initially not a sign but rather the small crowd of Asian people in front. In our travel experience, when you see these folks, you are not far from some famous or worthwhile spot.

With all museums our perennial problem is whether to leave the bikes alone outside. In this case, they were willing to stash the bikes in the basement, but we would have to take off all the bags and store them behind the counter. In the end we decided that this was too much work. We did have fun, though, looking at the items offered for sale at the front. Poor Karl Marx, even he can not escape being the subject of a gift shop, where you can buy a tee shirt, or a postcard with his image and the caption "Doubt Everything". We would have bought some of the books that were there, but even with our willingness to make periodic mailings home, they were too heavy.

Just down the street we ran into a Dutch couple living in Belgium and with a camper van across the river. They had pedalled into town, the lady with a Dutch electric bike with a low low step through. The step through and the electric were giving her great mobility, despite serious knee problems.

Now finally we entered the pedestrian only old town. Wow. It's not that we have forgotten what this can be like, but after a year away it was a treat to experience it again. This is the "standard" German crazy gorgeous townscape. Tall, sturdy buildings, with colourful walls and elaborate decoration. In the buildings - many bakeries, many shops selling sandwiches based on wonderful breads, book stores, and clothing stores of all types.

We found a central square, and sat at a bench to eat our tasty sandwiches based on wonderful bread. Adjacent was a book store, and Dodie wandered over to have a look. She came back with a treasure that would have made a great birthday present for me, or for use any time a real treat was in order. It was just 3 euros and it was a just slightly cartoonish map of the Mosel from Trier to Koblenz. I already have a map like that for the Rhine. In my capacity as the tourist at the back of the procession, rather than as the navigator, this is just right for seeing what attractions are coming up. Unfortunately this treasure was just a little big for the map case, so then we had to figure out how not to wreck this most precious of items I also proposed buying another two, one for backup and one for our friends Erika and Marvin who plan to cycle this route. Unfortunately the store only had the one, so now that one has national treasure status, and is protected at the bottom of a pannier, where no one can see it!

The fact that a map of where we are could create such a positive reaction reflects our positive reaction to the place itself. Not all the path is perfect and not all the sights are beautiful, but overall, it's great and we know we will fondly remember our time here.

As we were leaving Trier, we paused for a moment to check the map. This was the cue for a young woman, Barbara, on a bike nearby to ask if she could help. Barbara then guided us across the river and put us on the path. We have found that in Germany, more than in other places, people will stop and ask if you need help.

While riding, we learned that Barbara works 1/2 time in a bank in Trier, and commutes to work by bike. Otherwise she plays mandolin, does yoga, and participates in laughing sessions. Living on this river and near this city, doing activities like that seems like a nice life!

The man himself, on the front of the building

There were lots of books one could buy, some in English

A dutch electric bike with a low step through

There was a small market in the middle of wide street. Here is spargel - asparagus. \look how fat and blanched they are!

The portion of the river we covered today

Retrievers in a park. Every retriever we have seen here is white rather than golden.

A roman artifact, discovered nearby. There were quite a few of these scattered along the radweg, reflecting the live Roman heritage here.

Baby swans! Their mother was asleep just beside, and did not seem to mind me taking this photo.

At on point the paved path ascended slightly. The ascending part was labelled for mountain bike, and we were left with this unrideable bit, for a km. The slight hilly paved bit would have been way faster. What were they thinking!

A swarm of fully supported Belgian trippers passed us. They were a menace!

This seat on a track ascended way up the very steep vine covered hillside. Any work on these steep hills must be very tiring!

This is a bit of a strange story, but the chapel referred to makes a nice photo - below.

These plastic bits seemed to be used a lot to secure the vines to the wires. The two big bumpy bits are kind of a mystery. Tricia and Ken - do you know what these things are all about?

That's it for today. Tomorrow we ride into more scenery!

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 605 km (376 miles)

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