Day 5: Chiloquin to Fort Klamath, 2 museums

July 11, 2020

Today is a short easy recovery day. I got up at 8:30 and quickly packed to leave the motel and find breakfast. I pedaled into Chiloquin via the south entrance which is more the main part of town. I passed the tribal administration complex in modest metal buildings. I passed the tribal health center and day care center which are in very nice buildings. The tribe has a small casino 3 miles south of town that I didn't see.

Klamath tribe child care center adjacent to the health center.

Chiloquin made a somewhat better impression on me today. Downtown is still mostly boarded up but I noticed other things. The only restaurant that is open is take-out only. I ordered a full breakfast and ate most of it sitting on the bank of the Williamson river in town. As usual I ate the eggs, sausage, and potatoes and saved the toast and jam to eat later.

I pedaled out of Chiloquin on the north access road. On the way out of town I stopped to take a picture of the Craftsman-style Catholic church.

The north access road dumps me onto busy US 97 which has a usable paved shoulder but also a lot of truck traffic. Fortunately I pedaled only 3.5 miles north on US 97 to Collier State Park.

Williamson river rest stop, Collier state park.

My first stop at Collier State Park is east of the highway along the Williamson river. The spring fed river is popular for kayaking.

I laid down on a picnic table and took a nap. Temperature was about 80F.

Then across the highway to the outdoor logging museum. The logging museum is huge. It took me about an hour to walk the paths, read the signs, and see the machines.

The museum describes the timeline and evolution of logging in this region. Starting in about 1850, logging was entirely with human and animal power. Then in the 1870's steam power and railroads increased the productivity. Starting about 1940, roads and gasoline engines increased productivity even more.

The foot bridge connects the campground to the logging museum.

It's a great logging museum. The interpretive signs have a wealth of information and good quality photos. Many of the machines are amazing.

Mighty McGiffert log loader. Empty flatbed cars could pass underneath as it loaded a train.

I pedaled north of the logging museum a short distance for a final stop along the Williamson river at Spring Creek day use area. I talked to some kayakers who told me that the source spring is only 2 miles upstream. It's a very popular mellow float from the source spring to Collier State Park, about 3 miles. The river is only about 1 foot deep so it is warm and gentle.

After the Spring Creek day use area I pedaled west on a barely visible dirt road. Overgrown doubletrack for 2 uphill miles. I considered turning around but the grade was fairly easy and the sand was well packed. I wish I took a picture of the overgrown doubletrack. Bushes constantly scraping my panniers.

Finally I reached an intersection with a graded gravel road and turned left, downhill towards the Indian town of Klamath Agency. 2.7 miles gentle downhill.

Graded 2.7 mile downhill unpaved road immediately after a 2 mile uphill overgrown double track.

The gravel road ends at OR 62, a paved 2-lane highway. It's not as busy as US 97. Few trucks but it does have recreational traffic going to Crater Lake. No shoulder but the traffic was bearable.

I pedaled 7 mostly level miles north to the little town of Fort Klamath. On the way I saw 2 major creeks, the Wood river, and Fort Klamath Museum. A good way to end a lazy day.

The last time I pedaled through Fort Klamath I continued north with all the tourists to Crater Lake. It's a beautiful route and the climb isn't too daunting when starting at 4200 feet. But this tour has plenty of climbing without adding another 3000 foot climb to Crater Lake.

OR 62. Crater Lake is in the mountains straight ahead. 8934 foot Mt. Scott on the right. Telephoto from the real camera.

I get a kick when taking a photo of a mountain I have hiked. I hiked to the summit of Mt. Scott in 2007, an easy hike because the trailhead is at the highest point of the Crater Lake rim drive.

Fort creek adjacent to Fort Klamath museum.

My main plan for the day was Collier State Park. I pulled into Fort Klamath Museum at 4 PM. Still time to look around.

Fort Klamath Museum, a Klamath county park.

The inside part of the museum has a lot of small military artifacts on display. Most found on the premises. Fort Klamath was established in 1863 to protect emigrant trails. Closed in 1889 when settlers and travelers no longer needed military protection.

Model of Fort Klamath, a frontier army fort.

I talked to the caretaker for a few minutes. The museum property is a Klamath county park but the museum building is run by volunteers, same as my local museum.

After the museum was another 2 flat easy miles to the town of Fort Klamath. I stopped at the RV park south of town to buy a 22 ounce bottle of IPA brewed in Klamath Falls.

My motel is on the south edge of town. Aspen Inn, the more popular of two motels in town, run by a lesbian couple that flies the only rainbow flag in Fort Klamath. My $93 room has a fridge and microwave but no air conditioning. The room was 82F when I arrived, temperature 85F outside with the door and window facing the setting sun. 3 hours later the room cooled rapidly after sunset thanks to a fan, low humidity, and 4200 feet elevation.

Community Methodist church in Fort Klamath.

Fort Klamath is the gateway village to Crater Lake for all of California but it has no gas station/convenience store. I stopped at a general store in 2009 but it's closed now. The only store in town is a high price organic store. I spent $43 but didn't leave with a mountain of food.

Both the organic food store and the motel office have locked doors. You ring the buzzer and one customer at a time is allowed inside. Mask required, of course (state rule since July 1).

Fort Klamath has many boarded up buildings including the General Store I visited during a 2009 bike tour.

I appreciated the quiet in Fort Klamath after spending last night 100 feet from a busy truck route. It really is serene. The motel even has access to the Wood river 50 yards from my room.

Fort Klamath was the only place on this tour that I saw out of state license plates. My neighbors are a large family from Utah. The motel is full tonight. I'm probably the only one at the motel who is NOT going to Crater Lake.

Fort Klamath suffers from a lack of stores and restaurants but there are few other options. I wanted to spend the night 25 miles ahead in Rocky Point which does have restaurants, but the resorts have a 3 night minimum.

Today was a beautiful sunny day, high of 85F. Perfect summer weather. I needed a rest day because yesterday was very long and tomorrow will be very long. This was a good route for a rest day. The Williamson river, logging museum, and Fort Klamath museum are worthwhile attractions.

Distance: 23.3 mi. (37.3 km)
Average Speed: 8.0 mph (12.8 km/h)
Ascent/Descent: +513/-573 ft. (+156/-175 m)

Today's ride: 23 miles (37 km)
Total: 172 miles (277 km)

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