Železná Ruda to Hohenau and home

November 1, 2022

It looks like much has been invested in modernizing Pension St. Moritz where we are staying. Everything is freshly painted, the furniture is new, all the rooms have motion detectors that turn on the lights when you enter, the doors open with an electronic key card.

There are two other guests at breakfast, one is bikepacking with an absolute minimum. I have never seen a cyclist on tour with so little, just a small rucksack and one frame bag. I think he might have all of his clothes on all the time. The other guest is traveling by motorbike. The Šumava is very popular with motorcyclists with its small but well paved roads and little traffic. The only other thing to comment on at breakfast is that in spite of all the hi-tech that had been invested in the building, there was no coffee machine or even freshly brewed coffee, just instant Nescafe. I haven't encountered Nescafe anywhere except Asia for decades.

Instead of crossing the border at Železná Ruda we proceed through the forest, first on a rough trail.

Železná Ruda: I can now read all the signs - Achtung, construction vehicles exit

We are now in the former death strip. Rows of concrete pyramids were deterrents to prevent cars from attempting to crash through the border.

These remains from the carefully guarded border create an eerie atmosphere.

The Czech-German border: such a pretty spot and so long inaccessible

Entering Germany - this time it doesn't say Bavaria.

Again a lovely ride through the countryside of the Bavarian Forest National Park with forests, agriculture and villages. And yes, some hills. Today we have more climbing than any other day of the trip. Janos keeps reminding me that the ascent to Hohenau, where the car is parked, will be brutal. That's okay with me. Today I am feeling fitter than at the beginning of our trip. On the first day my bike felt awfully heavy, heavier than ever before. Today I am glad to see my strength is returning.

Here are a lot of pictures from the day, no captions.

At one point we come across a sign warning cyclists not to enter. If there is no obvious reason to make a detour, we usually don't. As I already mentioned, Janos cycled this route in September but in the other direction. He rode the path with the do-not-enter sign and never knew it was forbidden until he got to the end of it. So we know it isn't really dangerous. But, still, since the sign is in three languages stating in no uncertain terms that you should not enter, we take the detour which is well marked. When we get to the other end, we see that they are doing some construction on railroad tracks. Maybe using explosives, who knows?

Rain has been predicted for the late afternoon and we see fog has moved in to the west of us.

Finally we are on the last kilometers before reaching Hohenau. Janos has a brilliant idea. At some point before the steepest stretch he will unload his panniers which I will watch. He will then ride unencumbered to the car and come and pick me up. I am usually willing to be supportive in any way I can, but he should have known I would never consent to that. There is no doubt that I am going to finish the day and finish the tour on my bike.

We are at the car around three and then have a two and a half hour drive ahead of us. There is little traffic on the autobahn and we get home just as daylight fades into dusk. All went well but we are knackered by the time we get out of the car.

It was a successful trip for many reasons: It was important for me to see how I would feel on tour after my recent surgery; It was a last chance for a tour before the season turned too cold; Janos got to show me the places he had cycled by himself in September; Last but not least the scenery and the cycling were great.

If I had any complaints, it would be that even warm days at the end of October are only warm for a few hours, mornings and evenings are cold. But then I might be more sensitive to cold than some people. A better idea at this time of year might be to take a room for several days and make day trips from there. Or else go to the Provence.

Another thought for future trips is that I should no longer even attempt to post a journal while traveling. I felt under pressure and failed on the second day. It's great to follow people in real time, but I am too tired at the end of the day and in the morning I want to get moving. No, I will enjoy my days and take notes that will jog my memory when I write my journal at home.

Thanks for following along!

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Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 193 km (120 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	18

Nancy GrahamWell done in so many ways. I too would refuse to wait for someone to ride to the car without me and return to pick me up, even though it was a generous offer! ;’-). Love all your photos and the scenery as well as weather seem to have been about perfect.
I also not only understand, but agree with waiting to get home to do your journaling! It is too much pressure and takes away from some of the enjoyment of a tour if you must journal at the end of a tiring day.
Nice journal Suzanne, thank you for it.
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2 years ago

Rich FrasierYou are so lucky to live so close to such a beautiful area. I really enjoyed the photos!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyWhat a fabulous trip that you were able to do this late in the year. Glad to see you are feeling so much better. Thanks for sharing your trip!
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2 years ago

Eva WaltersIt's wonderful that you were able to do all this cycling so soon after your serious surgery. So glad you enjoyed the cycling and the beautiful scenery. Thanks for the journal.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauNice trip through nice territory with nice writing. It was ALL nice except for one thing--NO COFFEE AT THE PENSION ST. MORITZ.
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2 years ago

Kathleen JonesA lovely little tour. So you can now tuck in for the winter and start planning next year’s tours.
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2 years ago

Susan CarpenterI echo Kathleen and others - a delightful tour and wonderful photos. So glad you are feeling stronger! And I’m very interested in your plans for next year’s tours :)
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Nancy GrahamThanks for reading and commenting, Nancy!
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Rich FrasierThanks, Rich! I agree, we are fortunate. But you don't have a bad location yourself!
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo ann and steve maher-wearyHi, Ann and Steve, thanks for following! It was a short trip but the fall atmosphere made it special.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Eva WaltersThank you, Eva! It certainly was a treat to be able to tour into November.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Gregory GarceauAnd I don't even drink coffee! But the choice of tea bags was perhaps even more frustrating. Not one tea bag of plain black tea.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Kathleen JonesTuck in for the winter :((( Much time for planning next summer, though.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Susan CarpenterThanks, Susan, glad you liked the photos. Quant à plans for next summer, it seems so far off but I'm sure it will be May sooner than we think. :)))
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2 years ago

Keith ClassenGreat that you were able to take advantage of a good weather window for your late fall tour. Really enjoyed following along … great photos capturing the fall colours!
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Keith ClassenThanks, Keith! It's good to have things so close that spontaneous trips like this are possible.
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2 years ago

Emily SharpAll of your observations on the old and new and shift after the fall of communism were very interesting. And those forest sections looked devine. So great that you could squeeze in a trip in a good weather window and that you are back on the bike so quickly after surgery and recovery. I hope you get some good days through winter that are sunny and warm-ish that allow you to get out for some decent kms now and again.
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1 year ago

Karen PoretTo Nancy GrahamAgreed totally! how fortunate they are to reside in such surroundings!
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1 year ago