Hohenau to Haidmühle

October 29, 2022

I was right - the mornings are chilly even if the day does warm up to pleasant temperatures by noon. We didn't get off to an early start, it was already ten when we finally were in the saddle.

The sky wasn't blue yet and I was wearing many layers for the first fast downhill followed by a steep climb and then again down and up and down and up. It's hilly country here, more so than other parts of the Bavarian Forest where we have cycled. We had many beautiful vistas the first half of the ride.

I am surprised to see the sunflowers still fresh and blooming.

The only town on our route of particular interest was Waldkirchen. By noon it was warm enough for people to be sitting outside in cafés and it was a pleasant Saturday afternoon scene. An interesting feature of Waldkirchen are the radabweiser, stone figures on the corners of buildings that originally had the function of protecting the walls from the wheels of vehicles that cut the corners too close. Now they are decoration.

Figure protecting the buiding from wheels cutting the corner too close

Next to each one there is a plaque telling its story.

Not long after Waldkirchen our route took us on a rail trail. That was the beginning of the second half of the ride. In the past I remember saying, boring rail trail, nothing interesting, no variety. But today I was overjoyed with its gradual gradient and that we were no longer plunging down roads that would soon be climbs. The rail trail turned out to be not only gentler but also beautiful with the fall foliage and craggy, moss covered rocks to both sides. In my enthusiasm I took many similar pictures.

The bike trail is where the original tracks ran. The tracks were at some point moved to a new bed that you see here.

Shortly before our destination in Haidmühle, the rail trail leveled off and we picked up a bit more speed as we looked forward to a warm room. I was tired and felt the evening chill approach.

Our room was quite small and basic. When we got there it was around three and the room was cold, colder than outdoors. It was several hours before the heating came on, but we had big fluffy duvets to keep us warm. The guesthouse is located out of town, there is a duck pond , a fish pond and a chicken pen behind the house and it is very peaceful.

We rode our bikes back into town to its only restaurant and had a very nice meal. They apologized for the limited choice on the menu since the tourist season is over. The other guests all appeared to be locals meeting with friends for an evening beer, a friendly and relaxed village atmosphere. I imagine most tourists in these parts must be hikers, or in the winter, cross country skiiers. However, in spite of the hillly terrain there is also an extensive network of bicycle paths, and we were amazed to see that the public buses all had trailers for bicycles!

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Steve Miller/GrampiesWe really do prefer the longer, gradual, ascents. You may be climbing for longer but it somehow seems easier to develop a gentler rhthym than to really push hard for a shorter time.
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2 years ago

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 50 km (31 miles)

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Nancy GrahamI love the story and the photos of the radabweiser ;’-). I do find it so interesting about things that are unique to some areas, or eras.

Looks like your bike trails are not paved, but very nice hard packed surface. Your room sounds “cozy” and cute and at least you have those warm duvets to cuddle up in for warmth. Great photos of course and never too many of anything ;’-). Stay safe.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Nancy GrahamWe have had more paved surfaces than rough trails, really great cycling here. And much unique stuff here in the Czech Republic, so close to us and so different. More on that hopefully soon, probably when we get back home. As usual I am too tired to want to write at the end of the day.
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2 years ago