August 15, 2015
Milevsko to České Budějovice: Rails and trails
A short bit of cycling and a 172 Kr (CAD$5x2) train ride to give our legs a break.
At 10 pm we just received a downpour for this drought-ravaged country. Hopefully it soaks in and helps the crops.
We were up really early to get our bikes packed then ride to the station. I expected a large station, but it was a tiny Soviet-style building, similar to others I have seen, with a single trainmaster there who said the tickets were bought on board the train automatically.
This was at 7:15 am, our train was scheduled for 8:17 am, but was ten minutes late. Thus, it was interesting to look around - old tracks, a derelict train garage, likely Soviet-era, too.
When the little train arrived, we put our bikes in their designated area, but when we tried to figure out how to pay, we were told the machine was kaput. Our thirty minute ride to Tabor was free. Our change was tricky - we had to bring the bikes down the steps when the elevator did not work; I ran underground and back up to the station to find our next train had been delayed in order to meet our late train for passenger train changes. The clerk said I had no reservations for the bikes but still let me buy tickets for us (Kr172) to České Budějovice. I raced back to MA and the bikes, we carried our bikes up the stairs, flung off the bags, folded the bikes, then stepped into the closest car just inside the doors. We crossed our fingers, hoping they would not throw us off for having no reservations for the bikes or for where we were standing on the train.
About five minutes after we started moving the conductor came, stepped around my bags, got our tickets, then continued on his way without batting an eye. Whew!
I still felt sick, but I did watch the rolling hills go by, village to village had its station and trainmaster who would be out as the train went by. In an hour we were in České Budějovice, home of Budweiser Budvar beer. I handed down all of the gear, we packed up, then rolled out of the station and into the city centre - a few hundred metres away.
Our accommodations were part of the Hotel Zvon which faces the central square and its impressive magistrate`s building. We were early (around 11 am) but went to see if the room was available, which it was. They had us put our bikes in the parking garage by taking the car elevator up one floor. We then went up to our beautiful, though hot, room.
We were quite hungry so we went for a doner followed by a cappuccino at the town square, meandering the old centre, along the river and taking a lot of photos. It's quite nice in this area. At one point, we went to a Tripadvisor's recommended bar for a real Budweiser. The place was very cellar-like with arches and dark wood. The place was great, the decor amazing. The Budweiser beer was not so great. Not my kind of beer. Thankfully, we only had 300 ml each.
We chose our supper meal based on a Tripadvisor recommendation, too. I had beef goulash which had heavy, dark gravy. MA had roast duck. Both quite good. Again, the architecture of the place made it - we had a small booth/room.
I wanted to rest a bit, so we returned to the room. MA had a bath while I surfed. Once it was dark outside, we went out to the square for photos of the fountain, church tower, and various other buildings around the square. Still warm, there was lightning flashing to the north. Things to come?
I'd been eating and feeling better, but not wanting to chance things, we returned to our oven-like room so I could get to sleep. Within fifteen minutes it was pouring rain outside. Just in time !
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Today's ride: 5 km (3 miles)
Total: 130 km (81 miles)
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