Český Krumlov to Volary: Rolling hills under clearing skies

August 18, 2015

Hotel Bobik, Volary

WE went looking for breakfast when we headed out around 8 am but nothing would be open until 11 am so I set the GPS and we slowly headed out of the city, across the river, up the hill under the castle passageway, and out the other side.

On the edge of town we came to a petrol station where we each bought a litre of Cappy multi-fruit juice. Then we noticed the bike shop opening across the road from where we were, so I went over and got the same stand, and slipped in the missing bar that had fallen out a few days ago.

Heading out of town there was a bike path for a bit but it soon ended. The few sprinkles of rain ended, and the road dried, so the riding was quite pleasant.

There were a number of climbs to get over the rise before returning to a wide expanse of the Vltava River near Horni Plana. We could see the mountains of Austria to the southwest and of Germany to the northwest. At the halfway point we stopped by the causeway for a cappuccino and some garlic soup. In this area there were loads of cyclists (families, groups) who I think were in the campgrounds along the lake. Every now and then a short passenger train would toot by down the hill below us. The road was very hilly so we were careful to take our time.

Fortunately, we were both much stronger than a few days ago. Thus, when we arrived to our hotel, we were quite alright.

This hotel had brewing right at the onsite restaurant, so once the bikes were locked away and we had checked in, we went right into the restaurant for wild boar goulash and a dark beer (me) and red wine (MA). Though salty, the boar was good; the beer was only ok. Across the road was a Coop grocery store so MA went for Cappy juice and a Mars bar for each of us. Nice dessert!

We learned that in WW II, the Nazis had marched a group of Jewish women - the Death March of Volary. They had mass-buried 95 of them so at the end of the war the US helped properly bury them in a section of the local cemetery so we took a walk 500m to see what was a hauntingly beautiful part of the cemetery. Each of the 95 stones had a rock/pebble placed on it. If one had fallen off, we replaced them. A few of the stones were marked 'no name'.

After this quiet moment, we somberly returned to our hotel for a beer/wine, then a little snack (pike-perch for me; salad for MA) and back up to the room. We cleaned our laundry, uploaded some photos to FB then fell asleep.

After leaving the Vltava, our route is about to rejoin a large expansive portion of the river.
- Horni Plana, Czechia

Before crossing a portion of the Vltava on a causeway, we stopped at a cafe for energy.
- Horni Plana, Czechia

Beautiful rolling hills covered with alpine meadows. Made cycling tough, though.
- near Volary, Czechia

Wild boar goulash with chopped green onions and dumplings, red wine and dark beer made in this same room.
- Volary, Czechia

Cemetery where 95 Jewish women from the Death March to Volary are buried. Hauntingly beautiful and serene spot.
- Volary, Czechia

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 208 km (129 miles)

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