Escape the Doubs

July 24, 2018

Day 3: Clerval - Altkirche. Rivers followed: Doubs, Rhine-Rhône canal

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Fortunately once I'd moved my tent out of the light I had no further disturbances, and slept like a log. In fact, I slept late again, only awakening around 8am to the sound of the guardian - a different one - going about his rounds. I knew this was going to be a fresh challenge for my language skills, as since my tent had moved it looked like I was a new arrival. Fortunately I still had the dinky receipt I'd got the day before, so after a little confusion all became clear. I wouldn't have minded paying another €6 to be honest, apart from the lights it was a good campsite.

I took my time getting going, and once I rolled out I made sure I stopped at the supermarket to pick up some provisions. I was successful on this count (including obtaining some pesto-flavoured crisps and a big bag of croissants), but failed to get any toilet role given the smallest size they sold it in were 18-packs.

They sky was already cloudless and burnished by the sun, and it looked like it was going to be another sweltering day. My plan for the day was to get as close to the Rhine as I could - I didn't expect to cross it, but thought I could likely wild camp in the extensive forest beyond Mulhouse along the border. Either way, my route lay East further along the Doubs, and Montbéliard would be my first stop. I just prayed I wouldn't be pushing into the headwind again today.

As I cruised down to the level of the river, I was sadly disappointed. Almost immediately I was slowed by the wind. But it didn't seem too bad for the moment, and I felt strong after my rest. At first I was following the river between steep banks, as before. The going was empty, with wide, endless meanders of the broad Doubs. Eventually a canal (part of the Rhône-Rhine?) peeled off from the river, and I followed that. It was busier now, with a number of other touring cyclists. I saw a heavily laden guy pass me and say hello - he was carrying more than me but making better progress. I chatted with a lady who passed me and asked me where I was camping. I then passed her a little further down. It was all very civilized.

At L'isle-sur-le-Doubs we crossed the Doubs, and there was a sign for another campsite, which I brazenly wheeled into and refilled my water. As I rolled out I noticed the heavily laden chap who'd passed me earlier, having a snooze on a bench. That's how he kept up the pace!

There was clearly high demand from cycle tourists along this stretch, as I even passed a bike shop/cafe. I figured I needed to take things easy to avoid getting as burned out as yesterday, so stopped there and had a cold drink. I'd gone less than 30km but just needed to keep drinking all the time.

The canal section near Isle-sur-le-Doubs

A typical view down the long, straight canal, with many other cyclists about. The Shift looks dusty.

Max Wheel bike cafe. The bike rack had tools and an in-built pump for any ad-hoc maintenance you need to do

A (probably non-potable) fountain, which I also drunk from

It was only 25km from L'isle-sur-le-Doubs to Montbéliard, and I felt myself picking up the pace. I cut through a number of small villages, without much evidence of the large sprawl of the city. Montbéliard is an industrial town, built around several large Peugeot car factories, but the course along the river is pleasant and green. As I approached the town, I was passed again by the snoozing tourist from before, who waved his recognition.

The river path runs through a series of parkland and a botanical gardens and science museum. It looks to be quite a modern and pleasant place. I saw an advert for ice-cream, and it turned out to be the science museum's cafe. They weren't selling ice-cream, but they would do lunch. It was still quite early, but the sun was intensely hot and I wanted to follow a campaign of taking a siesta to avoid the worst of the heat. I had an excellent Greek salad and spent a good hour under the shade, while local school kids toured the science museum.

A cool locust scultpure near the botanical gardens

The Science museum cafe, where I had my lunch

At Monbéliard I was closest I would come to the Swiss border, which is only about 10 miles away. The Doubs curves back around to the South and enters Switzerland, and then back to the West to its source in the French Jura. But the faithful Rhine-Rhône canal continues to ply Eastwards, through the "Belfort gap" between the hills and out into Alsace. The EuroVelo 6 cycleway continues to follow the canal, making for relatively flat and easy going - but unfortunately for me, very exposed to the baking sun.

My siesta strategy seemed to have payed off though, as I avoided the mad-dogs-and-Englishmen midday sun, and left feeling energized and travelling a bit faster. I quickly picked up cycleway signs for Allenjoie, the suburb of Montebéliard I was aiming for, and indeed Mulhouse, which was less than 50km away and now dimly attainable. As the canal left the city I got a great view of some herons, much closer this time.

The "junction" of the cycleway between the route going North to Belfort, and that continuing East toward Mulhouse

I got a much clearer shot of some herons as I left the city

Unfortunately the blazing heat, and the unimpeded headwind from the East, kept relentlessly on. My speed fell to less than 15kph average, and I concentrated on slogging away. Near Froidfontaine there was an elaborate diversion which took me up into the hills, and didn't do anything for my fatigue levels. I passed a church with a graveyard, and after a little searching found a water tap along a side wall, given away by the ubiquitous watering cans.

Regaining the cycleway was shimmering in the heat. I passed another tourist, who asked if there was a cafe anywhere the way I had come. I had passed something that looked like this at Dannemarie, but wasn't sure. He asked me where I was headed, and when I mentioned Mulhouse, sounded sceptical that there was any camping there. In my current exhaustion I wasn't too keen on having to pass through Mulhouse, collect water and wild camp in the woods beyond. My map didn't indicate any other campsites nearby though.

On a particularly sweltering straight section of water route I did get the treat of seeing an unfamiliar beast moving by the side of the canal. It seemed very relaxed about my presence, so I could get a couple of good shots of it. A water rat, I think.

Typical straight, flat, sweltering canal section

Curious critter that caught my eye. Very chilled out he was.

I had made 80km, but was starting to wear out. As I pedalled somewhat despondently on, I passed a local information sign that indicated that, indeed, there were no campsites along this stretch. In fact, the only one on the map was in the town of Altkirch, some 10km South of the canal. A brief and not entirely clear-headed analysis of the map showed that I could get to Altkirch through backroads fairly easily, and though I didn't really want to be further South, I could use this to avoid going through Mulhouse the following day on my way to the Rhine. Frankly my exhaustion and dehydration rapidly made my decision for me.

With renewed purpose, I battled on against the wind past the village of Eglingen, and then as I crossed under the main road, pushed the Shift up the steep slope, negotiated the rather hairy roundabout, and set off up the "minor" road to Aspach. It was actually pretty fast and moreover up quite a steep hill, but I had plenty of room and the drivers were sensible.

I went over the top and into the village of Aspach, which felt a bit more natural to be cycling through and where I scoped a nice looking Pizza place. I descended a fairly steep hill to be met with the site of an enormous cement works, which is right in the middle of Altkirch. More welcome, though, were signs indicating there was indeed a campsite. I gave thanks to the French local pragmatism - you would never find a campsite signed from the middle of town in England - and followed it on the main road round the works. The signs led up the high street of the town: with "up" being the optimal word, as it soon became a steep hill. I spun up it doggedly in my granny gear, drenched in sweat, but pleasantly surprised at how OK hill climbing felt after the somewhat futility of battling headwinds. It wasn't a long climb, but it took me a good 15 minutes before the town thinned out, and I saw a turn off for the camping.

By the time I got to the top, I was being blinded because the salt in my own sweat was getting into my eyes. In truth I don't sweat much, but I do seem to emit a lot of salt (probably because I eat a lot of salt) - there were days when it even crystalised out on my skin. I staggered into the reception, which mercifully was open, to be hit by the cool air conditioning. I must have made quite a sight, but the friendly proprietress got me booked in, for the princely sum of 12 euros.

I wheeled slowly into the site, which was pleasant and only half full, and found a tucked away spot, making sure I was away from any lights that might come on in the middle of the night. I put the tent up very slowly, and then went to the showers and washed off all the salt.

My very wonkily put-up tent. Annoyingly, the thing my bike was leaning against *also* turned out to be a lamp, but a much less offensive one (that could be easily covered by my fleece).

It was a cool campsite this. There are sort-of tents of stilts which some people had hired

The Shift, going only slightly slower than when I was riding it, and doubling as a clothes line.

It was still only 7pm and I felt a little revived, so I went for a wonder around the town. There didn't seem to be a huge number of eating choices that weren't kebab places (though I did feel some regret about passing the combined burger restaurant and school of motoring - bizarre) so I decided, perhaps foolishly, to walk back to the good place I'd seen in Aspach. It was a little bit of a schlep, but in 45 minutes I was back there - and it was actually well worth it. Nice and informal and very friendly, I was served with a giant Pizza and could spend the evening lounging inside the window.

On the way back the cement works were still going and looked quite impressive in the fading light. It was still quite early so I dropped into the Oasis bar, which was absolutely deserted, and got a beer while sitting out on the high street. The bar has branded itself with a tropical theme, but the real origin of the name became clear with the Oasis band logo over the door. One to keep hidden.

The grand and separate girls' and boys' schools on the main street

The giant cement works really are in the middle of town

The cement works looked quite impressive as they were lit up at night

A home-made road safety sign: "he is, perhaps, mortal". I want to know what was on the broken-off side...

Today's ride: 92 km (57 miles)
Total: 310 km (193 miles)

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