Keelung to Tamsui - Eating Our Way Around Taiwan - 2024 - CycleBlaze

November 30, 2024

Keelung to Tamsui

Mostly coastal, with one inland swing

After my string of breakfastless stays, it seems I’ll get fed by my stays from now on. This hotel offered a nice buffet, so I made up for my vegetable-free evening last night.  

With heat not being an issue, I didn’t depart until 9:30. 

I started with 3 km of good urban riding, including passing a well-guarded navy yard complete with a gate and a spike belt.  The small person guarding the gate had a very big gun. 

The Keelung waterfront. It’s more urban than this photo makes it appear.
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Showing a bit of the development. My hotel is at the left.
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Exiting Keelung.
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It didn’t take long to get on a series of waterfront paths, sharing with Saturday morning walkers.
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I passed quite a few beaches today, some more inviting than others.
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I didn’t like this long tunnel. The sidewalk between the pipe on the right and the reflector poles on the left wasn’t wide enough to bike on.
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I took a shortcut for the first and last singletrack of the trip. Probably less than 100 m. I could see the path on the other side.
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I think I had just missed a LOT of firecrackers going off at this temple.
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There were lots of road cyclists out today too, mostly riding in the car lane, while I preferred the slower shared walking/biking path.
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The sun came out, it was about 21 C, and the wind wasn’t strong. I was very lucky with the weather today.
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It was less fun biking when my dedicated lane ended and there was a bit of construction. I’ve seen quite a few of these traffic scarecrows here. Their arms wave.
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I cycled by two nuclear power plants today - I’m a fan of nuclear (and even worked at a plant for one summer during university) but seems like maybe not a great idea in such a seismically active place? Google tells me that it’s a contentious issue for the Taiwanese too.
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There’s a natural rock arch near the northernmost point of Taiwan.
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Having spent the morning along the shore, I decided to take a detour on some quieter roads and different views. That meant going up, so I  stopped at busy 7-Eleven before my climb.   

The coastal road is quite busy, so I really enjoyed the zero traffic on my climb and descent. at one point, a woman shouted encouragement from her yard. I’ve heard the same thing from multiple people throughout the trip (for example, out of car windows), and have finally figured out what they are saying: ‘jiayou!’. Literally, it means ‘add oil’. But is commonly used as support/encouragement, like ‘go-go-go’. 

There was pretty much no traffic on route 19 as I climbed, or 17 as I descended.
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This fellow was part of a group of four men collecting wild star fruit along the roadside. He was using a long stick to poke them out of the trees. Another fellow had climbed a tree. Of course they gave me one. I don’t know if they get better when they ripen, but it was very sour.
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A sign told me that these are the Songshan Community Terraced Fields. They have recently been restored after 30 years of not being cultivated. The climb was really worth the views!
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It was a quick descent back to the coast and a pit stop at a beachside 7-Eleven. They are never far away, and generally have very clean toilets. This one had a display case of freshly made donuts, and three beers on tap. That’s a new one for me.  

This is the Fuji fishing village. There were loads of seafood stalls, and a strange waterfront tourist building that I thought was an homage to nuclear cooling towers, but was apparently designed to look like sombreros. Why, I wonder?
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The Fuguijiao Lighthouse sits at the northernmost point of Taiwan. I didn’t get any closer than this, not wanting to haul my bike up some stairs.
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At one beach, there were a few people foil surfing (not well) and just one person windsurfing quite well.
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There are no photos of a 10 km stretch of unpleasantly busy road with trucks, cars, and scooters screaming by. Yuck.  I was wishing for a separate lane, but it never seemed to appear. 

Arriving in Tamsui, I was thrilled to get off of busy route 2 and onto a cycle way.
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Fittingly for the end of my trip, there is a 7-Eleven in my hotel building.
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My hotel is nice, but not in a great location, restaurant wise. I got shrimp fried noodles from the only nearby place. They were pretty good, but weren’t exactly loaded with shrimp. After spending last night in the basement linen closet, my bike gets to be in the lobby tonight with my room number prominently displayed. 

Fun fact: In 2020, the number of pets in Taiwan surpassed the number of children under 15 for the first time. The pets are treated like kids though.  Today I saw multiple small dogs being pushed in prams. 

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Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 1,279 km (794 miles)

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