Fangshan to Kenting - Eating Our Way Around Taiwan - 2024 - CycleBlaze

November 19, 2024

Fangshan to Kenting

High winds, but not as bad as feared

I could hear waves crashing on the beach all night from my room, which is usually soothing, but I was worried about the wind. And also sad to be leaving Sue and Rick behind. They’ll stay here another night before heading to Taipei on Wednesday. 

Along with at least four other cyclists who stayed at our hotel last night, I decided to proceed south, knowing the bus is an option if the wind is too much.  

We had breakfast with Justin and Allie from Denver. I won’t likely see them again on the east coast because they’ll head east in the wind today, not getting as far south as Kenting. 

Our hotel is a funny place, once glamorous perhaps, with a big lobby that has been decorated for Christmas and is alternately playing  Christmas carols and classical music. The walls have paintings of Western scenes, including the  one of Victoria, BC’s Empress Hotel in Sue and Rick’s room. The art doesn’t at all match the beautiful tropical location. There is a decent looking outdoor pool, but it closed on November 1 for the winter. Funny thing is, the ocean temperature here is still 27 C. It’s not like they’d have to heat the pool. 😂

I left the hotel around 10 am shortly after four other tourers - the Americans plus two women from Germany. 

The view from our nice resort hotel. It wasn’t terribly windy here this morning.
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I’ll miss these guys.
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Sue waves goodbye.
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I had a moderate tail wind for 10 km, then it got gusty and there was a crosswind component. I had planned a scenic route a couple of days ago, but at the 20 km mark today,  I edited it to be more direct route of only 40 km, lopping off 18 km and a bunch of coastline. 

I hit no red lights for first 20 km, which felt like miracle. 

My inland ride was nice and calm. Was that because of my chosen route, or had the winds died down? Figuring I’d arrive about 2-1/2 hours before I could check in, and no longer afraid of being blown off my bike, I did a nice loop of beaches and added back some of those kilometres that I’d cut off. The south end of Taiwan is very picturesque.  

The wind picked up again when I got into the community of Kenting. 

I spent lots of today off the main roads. I like these little ones best.
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PVC pipes and elbows. Is someone getting a new boat?
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The seaside route in Kenting Park doesn’t always have views. In fact, it mostly doesn’t have views. But the vegetation blocked the wind, I think.
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Baisha Beach is locally famous. And is reportedly featured in the movie ‘Life of Pi’.
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But today, there was no swimming allowed at Baisha Beach. And signs said that kayaking and SUPing are never allowed.
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Pretty beach, but not much action today.
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Are we in Canada? The heat and humidity say no. But Sue and Rick had a painting of Victoria BC’s Empress Hotel in their room last night. And then I saw this Yoho sign.
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There was more beach activity close to Kenting.
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There are lots of guest house and hotels all along the waterfront.
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I’m in a nice homestay where I have a space with a living room, bathroom and bedroom on the 2nd floor.  Two older ladies were playing some sort of card game with the brother of the owner when I arrived.  A small amount of money was involved - we’ve seen very few instances of people sitting around in Taiwan, but this was one of them. The owners have three young kids. And four rescued cats who seem to live in a giant street front enclosure. 

The cats refused to sit still for a photo. I think they wanted to be fed.
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Rachael AndersonI would love staying there with the cats.
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1 week ago

I had Thai chicken curry for dinner at the restaurant next door, not venturing far because the wind was a bit unpleasant. The curry was just okay. But I really enjoyed the tamarind juice drink. I don’t love eating at restaurants by myself. I think that street markets or noodle stalls will be a good solo choice here in Taiwan, but there weren’t many vendors out tonight in the wind. The restaurant wasn’t busy either. 

I had trouble finding a place to stay in my chosen destination tomorrow, so I’ll have to go about 10 km further than I’d like.

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Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 703 km (437 miles)

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Scott AndersonRats. I meant to drop in a comment about the wind yesterday. I wasn’t really too concerned about you getting down to Kenting, but that wind forecast looks like it might be a poor time to go around the horn and up the east side. We did that ten years ago on a day ride from Kenting, and it was one of the windiest rides we’ve ever experienced. Beautiful though: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/taiwan2014/layover-in-kenting/
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1 week ago
Betsy EvansI didn’t risk a windy ride along the coast today. Instead, I went up and over the mountains and it was a fabulous day. Great riding, and the wind wasn’t a factor. Tomorrow I’ll head to Taitung, and the only option is the windy coast. Then I’ll take a rest day!
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1 week ago