November 13, 2024 to November 15, 2024
Day 42-44 - Heading north
We have finally 'turned right' and are heading mostly north toward the rest of Africa.
We left Amanda's house relatively early hoping to take advantage of the tail wind. Rolling hills into Stellenbosch and plenty of morning commuter traffic. Great road surface, lots of grapes and some mountains in the distance - this could be northern Italy (or another of the many wine growing regions). The traffic cleared up as we crossed the N1 and we stuck to the wide shoulder of the R44 into Wellington. Stopped for some lunch at a supermarket, then attacked the gentle climb of the Bains Kloof pass. We didn't expect such a nice climb (on perfect asphalt) or a dramatic gorge on the other side. Glad we were recommended this road (R301 out of Wellington).
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This took us down to Breerivier, and the 7 Oaks Winery. A WarmShowers host. Patrick was out of town, but Jacqui and Willem (property manager) prepared one of the cottages they usually rent out to guests for us to stay in. It's a lovely little cottage, with a hot tub and a grand view of the Waaihoekberge mountains to the east. The mountains caught fire as the red light from the sun setting hit them. We're very lucky to be able to stay here for the night!
Yesterday was just one of those days. We didn't expect to be sitting in a hot tub when we started out.
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Today was somewhat similar. We have been warned so often that people will try to rob us at almost every turn here in South Africa. You can imagine our hesitation when a car stopped, holding up the traffic behind. The occupant, with a Boston Terrier on his lap, asking us where we were going. There we trucks, and we were trying to negotiate the intersection. We pointed and said 'north' or something to that effect. He drove off. We quickly dismissed the interaction and headed (the other way) for the supermarket.
Before we could get through the door, somewhat slowed by the security guard insisting we couldn't have our bikes on the walkway (there was a sign saying so, you see), there was the man again with his terrier under his arm asking the same question. We weren't sure about what he wanted, but then he had his phone out, WhatsApp opened and the 'cairo to cape town club' group chat open. I knew he was okay, otherwise it was a very convoluted scheme to try to rob us.
He was on his way to Cape Town but 'bikes come first', and we were quickly invited for a coffee, maybe something to eat.... it's hard to turn down enthusiasm and hospitality. Mitch's place is amazing. How many of you have seen a tandem bike? How many have ridden a tandem bike? This man is so bike crazy (in a good way) that he has SIX tandem bikes in his shed! SIX. One he even rode in the Paralympics in Barcelona. And too many other bikes to mention (track, road, MTB, the lot).
So not only did we oogle bikes and have a cup of coffee, but after Stephen mentioned that Cath had been looking for a raised headstem to bring her handlebars higher to help with some neck pain, Mitch sprung into action. He was into his workshop, he was making phonecalls, we were in the car to town to the local bike shop and to our shock, he was having the perfect stem removed from one of the customers bikes that was in for service with the promise he would buy a replacement in Cape Town (when he eventually gets there).
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Amazing. Mitch loves bikes, loves talking bikes, loves riding bikes and wants people with bikes to come and say hello. So if you are riding anywhere near Ceres, give him a shout out and he will jump at the opportunity to shower you with South African hospitality!
Mitch rode with us up the hill out of Ceres and wished us on our way at the top, it's likely the slowest he has ever climbed that hill!
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1 month ago
Flanked by apple orchards we rolled down the road toward Op Die Berg. Having climbed out of Ceres at about 2pm, the hottest time in the day, we were a bit hot and bothered on arrival. The supermarket delivered cold drinks and ice blocks. A luxury we are unlikely to have in a week or so.
Mitch had suggested asking at the police station if we can camp at the station, so we rode in that general direction to be directed back where we came from and the to a local's house to ask for somewhere to camp. We knocked on Lisa's door. Imagine looking out your window to see two sweaty cycle tourists on your doorstep, and then they ask for a place to camp! Lisa took it in her stride and offered a grassy spot hear her cafe down the road. Moments later we were met by her husband handing over the keys for the night so that we could have access to the toilet if we needed! What? Razor wire all over the place, hand your shop keys over to total strangers for the night. Confused! But grateful.
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The original plan from Ceres was to go on a dirt road around the Eastern side of the Cederberg range up to Cederberg town and then back to the N7. After we met Mitch in Ceres, he convinced us that the road was full of snakes, in bad condition (dirt and all washed away). Local knowledge... So we quit that plan.
Instead, we rode up the road to Op Die Berg, up the valley over a pass and down into Citrusdam. Despite not having planned this route, the valley was lovely. It was a great ride. Hopefully better than the alternative straight up the highway. The pass was dirt though - making it significantly harder, but keep a lot of the cars, and all of the trucks, away.
From Citrusdam, we wanted to go to Clanwilliam for the night. The N7 went exactly where we wanted to go. But of course we found a small road that went parallel to the main road, which we thought we would give a try. The map showed that it was paved, although that only lasted for a few kilometres and then ended up being a dirt road, in between Citrus plantations and along the river.
We didn't quite make it to Clanwilliam. But stumbled across the campground about 10 km before then, where we spent the night.
It's pretty dry, and getting warmer and dryer as we head north. No danger of rain, so we left off the tent fly. That meant we had the company of the full moon all night!
Today's ride: 270 km (168 miles)
Total: 1,623 km (1,008 miles)
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