September 19, 2000
Cahors
Weather was the dominant issue today. The forecast was for several days of rain, heavy at times, so we were not optimistic. We had alternate plans in mind, depending on our success in finding rideable breaks in the weather - especially given my lack of a rain jacket.
It was raining lightly when we awoke, but by 9 it had tapered off to a light mist so we set out, hoping to get at least as far as Gourdon (35 km away) before being forced off the road. As it happened we were quite fortunate and by midafternoon riding under lightly grey skies we had nearly 50 km in. Mostly along very quiet, lovely back roads. We broke the ride with a roadside picnic beside a ruined 13th century abbey.
As we neared the only high country of the day - the ridge rimming the north side of the Lot valley - the sky darkened significantly, winds sharply increased- and at every village we passed through we reassessed our chances of reaching the next one before the rains hit. Suddenly, with shocking abruptness, our fair weather window came to an end with a dramatic deluge. Fortunately we were only a few blocks from a vegetable stand where we found an overhang to huddle beneath for at least a half hour as we watched wave upon wave of dense rain flood wash over the road and across the land. Eventually it finally passed on though and we continued on the few remaining miles to Cahors. This final stretch was lovely - first biking past lush vineyards heavy with grapes - the harvesting can only be a week or so away - and then on a quiet road alongside the Lot which carried us into the city limits.
Along the way we were passed by a trio of bicyclists, two of whom we thought we recognized from Rocamadour and Domme. On the following day we were stunned when we met another member of their group while stopped at the turnoff to Bouziès to learn that they were from the Portland Bike Tourists Association.
We had a fine visit to Cahors. After checking in to our hotel we indulged in some urban activities in the largest town we’ve seen in the last ten days. We found: a raincoat for me (for 200 FF); delicious pastries (rhubarb tarts, chocolate and pear tarts); visited the famous 13th century Valentré Bridge; and walked the circumference of the town along the Lot (which circles 270 degrees of it) on our way to a great pizza dinner - our first of the trip. We sat in a dim, remote corner, and were shown the location of the light switch in case we wanted to brighten it up later - which I did, on only my third try - afte first throwing most of the restaurant into darkness.
Oh, yes - one more thing. We also visited the fine market hall in the center of town, admiring the cheeses and vegetables, purchasing trail food (peanuts and pistachios) and a couple of great sausage and vegetable stuffed pastries.
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Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 436 km (271 miles)
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