July 25, 2024
Telegraph Cove to Bere Point Regional Park
This morning started much the same way as yesterday: rain pattering on the rain fly. Though this time I awoke much more itchy. It turns out that wearing only shorts and a t-shirt while doing laundry was a bad idea, as I woke with close to 40 bug bites on my calves. Note to self: stay in the tent until pants are dry next time.
The rain was slated to die down around 10am, so we had a slow morning in camp. We also knew that today was a shorter day of riding, since we were now in no hurry to make it to Port Hardy by Friday. We set our sights on Bere Point Regional Park, a campground on Malcom Island just off the coast of Port McNeil.
We finally left Telegraph Cove around 11am, passing by several deer and bald eagles on our way out of town. There was more logging traffic than previous days, so we were always alert for the sound of approaching trucks. Luckily all drovers were extremely kind and would slow down for us to keep the dust at bay.
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Our route soon took us past an actove logging area, where the road was roped off. Luckily, a worker approached us from his truck and told us that a passing trucker had radioed him to tell him that two cyclists would be coming his way. We chatted with him for a few minutes while waiting for the last of some logs to be loaded onto a truck before he guided us through the work zone, thereby saving us several miles of backtracking or detouring.
We then descended to the Nimpkish River, passing over a long bridge where we admired the view of the mountains. After one more final climb and descent, we arrived at Port McNeil, where we grabbed a pizza and drink from the local brewery while waiting for the ferry over to Malcolm Island.
From Port McNeil my dad and I boarded a ferry for the 15 minute ride over to Sointula on Malcolm Island. The views looking back towards Vancouver Island were incredible, with huge kelp forests dotting the water's surface and snow-capped peaks off in the distance.
Once on the island we rode at a leisurely place, enjoying the last of the sun's warm rays as we rode around the bay and up and over the island's spine to Bere Point. The past several days have been rugged, but this island felt anything but. It was quiet and serene in the evening light.
At camp we set up our tents for the penultimate time, and then I went out on a short hike to the point to watch the last of the sunset. And as I watched the clouds change colors and the Coastal Mountains fade from view, I thought back to a poem that we saw on a mural just outside of Sointula.
"I must go down to the sea again
To the vagrant gypsy life
To the gull's way and the whale's way
Where the wind's like a whetted knife.
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow
And a quiet sleep and a sweet dream
When the long trip's over." -John Masefield
Our long trip is soon to be over, and a quiet sleep and sweet dream are sure to be welcomed by each of us. But I would be lying if I said this trip hasn't been a dream of its own. One that my dad and I will cherish for the rest of our lives.
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3 months ago
Today's ride: 39 km (24 miles)
Total: 534 km (332 miles)
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