July 21, 2024
Miracle Beach Provincial Park to Roberts Lake Recreation Site
"Jeremy, wake up there's something big out there."
Not exactly the words you want to have shouted at you at 1:40am in your tent while in bear territory. I immediately darted awake, looking through the mesh of my tent into the darkness, and almost immediately heared the distinct "snap" of a twig underfoot. We each stayed still, listening, until several seconds later we again heard it again: "snap," this time 20 feet or so in front of my tent. I pulled out my bear spray and turned on the flashlight on my cell phone and started panning around. Nothing.
Several seconds later: "snap." It was now somewhere behind my dad's tent. We each spoke to one another loudly to make sure that whatever it was knew we were here. I'm sure that whatever it was could also hear my chest pounding through my sleeping bag. Eventually though all sounds ceased and we were again alone, or at least we felt alone. I put down my flashlight and laid my head down on my pillow, but to say I slept soundly the rest of the night would be a lie. Turns out that going to bed smelling like a zesty lemon bug spray might not have been the wisest idea.
At 6:15am I was awake and eager to get packed up and on the road. I made oatmeal and coffee while my dad slept in. He has been an absolute rock star on this trip, especially considering that he has never before biked such distances so consistently day after day. Eventually he woke up and we were soon packed and on our way.
After a brief stop at a breakfast stand we headed north towards Campbell River along sandy beachside trails, with expansive views of the Coastal Mountains to the east and fishing vessels along the water. The sky was overcast and the air cool, a drastic change from the past several days of heat and sunshine. We even felt a few pecks of rain as our trail turned to pavement and we rode into Campbell River.
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Once in town we stopped for a quick snack and to pick up supplies for dinner at Walmart. During this time we met Mathias, a German cyclist riding from the Arctic to Argentina. We traded a few stories and suggestions and got his contact information should he need a place to stay once in Southern California. He suggested that we stay at a quiet walk-in campsite at Roberts Lake, some 35 kilometers from town. We had that destination in mind as we headed out.
Back on the road, we took a steep forest service road to the west of Highway 19. We had it almost entirely to ourselves and thoroughly enjoyed the sense of solitude it gave. Traffic was much calmer as we jumped back onto the highway for the final uphill push to Roberts Lake. We had tremendous views of some of the inland mountains, some of which were still covered in snow. Vancouver Island really does not feel like an island with how large it is.
We topped up our bottles at a freshwater spring just off the side of the road before taking an unmarked road down to the lake, where we were greeted with one of the most beautiful campsites we'd ever been to. The wind picked up considerably and was whipping the trees around us as we set up our tents only feet from the water's edge. After setting up camp, we went for a swim. The water was quite warm, a pleasant surprise. After a quick meal of rice, tortillas, and cheese, my dad went to bed as I spent a little while longer taking pictures and enjoying the evening light.
Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 294 km (183 miles)
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