July 19, 2024
July 19: Descanso Bay Regional Park to Qualicum First Nations Campground
The night was warm and we each slept soundly under the pines. We awoke just as the sunlight started to illuminate the tops of the trees. Ravens were cawing loudly as we made coffee and tea and disassembled and packed up camp. The ride to the ferry was brief, and soon we were back on Vancouver Island heading north parallel to Highway 19a on the E&N Trail.
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We stopped at a Starbucks after about an hour of riding to fuel up and use several of the gift cards I'd acquired over the previous school year. Once topped off, we hopped onto Highway 19 for eight busy kilometers before turning onto quieter secondary roads around Nanoose Bay. The weather was perfect, and locals that we met commented that we couldn't have chosen a better week to visit.
In Parksville we stopped at a beachside community park to rest and use the bathrooms. There just so happened to be several food trucks set up as well, so we purchased a small pizza to share. The park was bustling with families enjoying the sunshine, and a sandcastle tournament nearby also drew in many visitors. We rested in the shade for a short time before heading out.
From Parksville we were routed off of Highway 19a and through manicured, eerily quiet neighborhoods. They were almost too perfect, and it felt as though we had entered the set of the "Stepford Wives" or the "Truman Show." I felt out of place, what with my sweat-stained clothes and sunburned nose. Still, Canada's infrastructure for cyclists and pedestrians continued to impress as we made our way north, with dedicated lanes and thoroughfares that were being used by young and old alike.
Canada's infrastructure couldn't last forever, though, and soon we had to join Highway 19a for our last push to Qualicum First Nation Campground. It was quite hot while climbing in the sun, as the trees on either side of the road dampened what little wind there was. Luckily the traffic had died down somewhat since Parksville, and we even had a brief, lovely stint on a gravel side rode for several kilometers before finding our way to the campground.
We rolled in to camp around 5:45pm, which left us with nearly three and a half hours until sunset. So, after unpacking and setting up camp, we each showered and cleaned off our grimy clothes, made dinner, and lubed the chains on our bikes.
Tomorrow's goal will likely be one of the provincial parks outside of Comox, which is where the Tree to Sea loop officially begins. We discussed possible route modifications we may want or need to make depending on how we are each feeling, how much climbing we would like to do, and how many days we have remaining before our ferry departs for Prince Rupert. I for one am a glutton for punishment and love the slow grind of a long climb, but I am also 31 years younger than my dad and am mindful of making this a trip we can both enjoy.
The months leading up to this trip have been stressful for my family, especially so for my parents as they juggle their own lives along with caring for their aging parents. My dad has been helping his dad (my grandpa) as he recovers from a myriad of challenges that come with age and a life well-lived. Watching him care for my grandpa has made me wonder what stories we will have to share when I am in the shoes in which he currently finds himself.
When my mom asked me "What if dad joined you?" the answer was easy, or at least it was for me. But my dad was trepidacious. He was worried about the cost, about taking time away from his dad, and about holding me back or slowing me down. But I asked him not to worry about those matters and to instead ask himself "How much longer do we have to do something like this?" I think that is what got him to change his mind, as the next night we were sitting in front of the computer booking his flights and ferry tickets. And just yesterday, as we gingerly crossed the border and started pedaling north, my dad remarked that "this is one of the happiest days of my life." What son wouldn't want to be told that.
Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 139 km (86 miles)
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