We are in the Alps: ...beautiful ride except for the part after Reutte
Camping at Magdalena on Forggensee is situated on undeniably one of the most beautiful locations we have ever experienced in a campground. However, we didn't know that so much humanity could be wedged into tiers along a steep slope and in small patches of grass. We were lucky to grab a spot the size of our tent at the end of a tent enclave that could hold 3 tents and looked out at farm fields. We had a marvellous view and a sense of privacy when we positioned our Helinox ground chairs away from the chaos. All in all, we were very happy to be here. Set off early to make our way to Fussen, Reutte and then into the area we have heard about that is challenging. A tip about the route from Rieden on Forggensee (where the campground is located) - The previous day we took the "new" route along the lake. It is very pretty, narrow in places, hilly and gravel at times. We noticed that there was an alternate route at the corner by the bike repair shop, where you can turn right instead of going straight. We encourage any loaded bicycle to take this route as it is the "old" route and completely paved and is a separate bike path all the way into Fussen. As this was a Sunday, hordes of day trippers were on the "new" trail and it would have been challenging for us. For some reason, Bikeline doesn't show this alternate and they should as it is far better.
Just out of Fussen is this lovely waterfall, which is bordered by the ever closer Alps and features glacial aqua water.
Maximillian, the father of the architect of Neuswanchestein (sorry for spelling and lack of info - reference books have been mailed back) This bust was set in to the side of the canyon by the waterfall.
Our route will be only 30 km today, but we have the sense that this will be plenty as we will be navigating difficult, gravel paths up steep grades...and as our friend Georg told us - don't worry about distance in the Alps - just do what you can.
The official signage that we'll be watching for on this stage of the route.
Now to today's ride....it was good with exceptional scenery. Once we entered Austria, loose large gravel dominated the path and it was challenging at times. But then we enjoyed pavement as far as Reutte, and that is when it fell apart.
We are making progress - we are in Austria! And that is a good thing...
...except that we almost immediately are on gravel paths. At times the gravel is good, but most of the time, especially on slopes, it deteriorates to loose stones that are not good for riding.
I want to say that Barry and I always try to focus on the positive in our travels - otherwise, why do it? But today will be an exception. I am glad that we successfully completed today's challenges, but I can honestly say that I wouldn't choose to repeat today's route. A suggestion - why don't the Fern Pass shuttles pick people up in Reutte rather than after this stretch. For people like us, this would be appreciated. Why does Via Claudia Augusta promote itself as a cycle touring route, when after Reutte, the route sign states that this is now a mountain bike route...and they're not kidding. The route's surface is mostly large pieces of gravel on gradients of 14+ percent uphill for about 8 km. It does level out at times.
Signage is very good - the large green sign is for cyclists and the yellow signs are for hikers. Ours are measured in km and hikers' signs are in the time it should take you to reach the destination.
The start of 8 km of gravel climbing on a mountain bike trail. At this point, we thought that it would be ok, but this quickly became a steep 1 km climb.
Our approach today was to "divide and conquer" with Barry pushing the bike (something he never willingly does) and me pushing the trailer. When he could ride, depending on the gradient, he pulled the trailer as well or I took it off and pushed it. His frustration when riding, was that his back wheel would spin out due to the surface. It didn't help that it was a very hot day.
As 60+ riders, it made us feel better when we met two lads in their early 20's who were also suffering.
Sabastien and Kevin are university students from near Munich. They had ridden over a 100 km today. We met them just before the ride downhill to Pension Posthansl.
As the stoker on a tandem, I am used to people laughing and making jokes that "she's not pedalling", etc. I usually laugh and shrug it off, but today, as I was walking up a steep gradient while Barry rode the bike (it's easier with less weight on the bike), a group of tourists joked with me,"why does he do all the work? Shouldn't you be helping? As this was after a long push of the trailer up the hill, I let it go, but I wasn't feeling very friendly at that point.
It was surreal to emerge at the top to a tourist area with a parking lot and castle as well as this archery club.
Luckily, we anticipated that we would need comfort and TLC after today's ride, so we used Booking.com to find a Pension in Heiterwang. We are staying at Pension Hansl and we would recommend it to a weary traveller. Comfortable, low key and surrounded by the beauty of the Alps that brought us here. We will sleep well tonight. As our recumbent tandem is XL and challenging for shuttle companies, we have organized a shuttle from Lermoos to take us over the Fern Pass. We look forward to that. Today we climbed from 800 to 1100 metres within a few km. Now I sit on the deck of our Pension enjoying a Weissen (wheat beer) and the only sound I can hear is the melodic clang of cow bells in the distance - paradise!
**pictures to come for the last few days when the internet is stronger
This will be the last big climb (14% grade for a km on gravel and pavement), but Barry has to share the road with cars, and they were in a hurry.
To push the trailer, we take advantage of Radical Designs (from Holland) clever design by changing the wheels, which are quick release, to the back of the trailer. We really love this trailer - lightweight, adaptable and tows well.
Almost there - I'll admit that the heat and climb has finally gotten to me. One thing that saved us was the blue headband/scarf that we are both wearing. We bought them in Canada, they're called Arctic Kool and are activated by immersing them in water and snapping them. To refresh them, just repeat. They stay cold a long time.
Having a shower at the end of a long day of riding is almost all you need to restore your energy. However, sitting on a deck with a wonderful view and the sound of cow bells up the mountain while enjoying a local beer is also a good thing.
It is so rare on this trip to get an internet connection that works - and it works beautifully here at Pension Posthansl with such a pretty view of the mountains.
