To Assisi -through picturesque Umbria on rough roads: -olive groves, tobacco fields, castles....
I won't go on and on - but if you are staying in Umbertide, consider a different hotel than Capponi. It is not a good feeling to feel ripped off when you pay your bill. Anyway, on to better things.... we are on our way to Assisi, a UNESCO designated community and a location where 2 campgrounds are still open. We have been frustrated that we have been hauling camping gear and have not been able to camp. We ride past huge campgrounds, but they are locked and finished for the season. We had planned our trip to Italy to be here in September/early Oct so that we would miss the heat and busy period of summer. We hadn't realized that most campgrounds close down early in September. Somehow we missed that in our research. On the positive side though, we have been able to find reasonably priced hotels and agriturismos which offer good value and are quite charming. We have met some special people who have hosted us in their homes and guesthuoses. The ride today was quite spectacular. Yesterday, we saw the large leafed yellowing crops in the fields, and figured out today that it is tobacco. It was interesting to watch farmers harvest this plant and to pass by the aromatic processing plants. We met so many tractors pulling wagons loaded with tobacco. As well, the hills beyond were filled with olive groves and some vineyards. The weather changed to hot and sunny in the afternoon, just in time for a long climb in the hills to Piccione. The climb revealed beautiful views of the Umbriam countryside...and happily, we discovered a great Bar at the top of the hill with fresh gelato. Yum. We rode a glorious downhill to Assisi and Internazionale campground. We are very pleased to find such a well run and organized campground. It is only a few km from Assisi with a stunning view of this historic city perched on the hillside. The campgroud has a shuttle which takes you up (170 m) to the centre of Assisi for only 1.50 euros - four times a day. Very convenient and nice to leave our bike at camp. The main challenge of riding in this part of Italy is the quality of the roads. Pot holed, patched and bumpy - it is hard to find a good line to ride. Today we were thinking that gravel could be better than this. Nonetheless, we bump along and marvel at the extraordinary landscape we are riding through.
