Sightseeing in Siena: The Unique and Beautiful Duomo
We are really enjoying staying at Casa Laura. The location of the apartment on the courtyard is very quiet and its view of the old brick walls and other apts give us the feeling of being part of an Italian neighbourhood. Laura has outfitted the apartment with everything we could ask for. The kitchen is great, we have an antique wooden couch, antique brass king sized bed, beautiful old tiled floors and lovely marble in the bathroom. When you step out of the main front door, you are in the middle of a bustling community with university students and small family businesses. It's great. We couldn't wait to start walking and see some of Siena. We have bought the combo ticket at the Duomo which includes entry to the Baptistry, Crypt, Gate of Heavens tour, Duomo and its museum: a very good value. As we are here 3 days, we think that we will pace ourselves and see a few things each day, so that we have time to stroll through the streets of Siena as well.
In Europe, postal delivery is always interesting - by bicycle, on foot or creative little vehicles like this one.
Il Campo is a huge circular piazza in Sienna and it fans out from City Hall to create an ampitheatre like setting. During the famous annual Palio horse race, the centre is full of people and the outer ring is covered in dirt and the horses race around the Piazza.
This dog waited patiently for his master outside the museum. We were royally entertained by his intense scrutiny as he sized each of us up in the long line waiting to buy tickets.
The current structure of the Duomo dates back to 1215. The lower part was built by Giovanni Pisano in the Romanesque style featuring arched opening - and the upper part was designed and built a century later in the Gothic style. Siena is built on 3 hills and the town follows the ridges like a spine. The Duomo sits on the highest point. Like all churches in Siena, the Duomo honours the Virgin Mary. As well as its unique design elements, the Duomo is known for its extraordinary artwork including statues by Michaelangelo, Donatello, Bernini...the well preserved frescoes,the marble floors and historically significant paintings.
We loved the whimsy and joy that these statues give to the space.
The Palio race has gone on for hundreds of years in Il Campo square. Each horse and rider represents one of the 17 districts in Siena. Passions and loyalty for one's district are very fierce and have deep roots in families for generations. The race is very dangerous and riders are often thrown from the horse (note the rider on the ground at the right). The winner is the first horse across the line - even if the rider is no longer on the horse.
Luckily for us, September and October are a special time for touring the Duomo. The floor is made up of original art made of marble and tiles and it is covered most of the year to protect it. It is exposed only for these two months. We took a tour which took us up into the upper attic and roof line of the Duomo to have a great view of the interior (and these floors_ and the countryside.
While climbing up the stairs of the Duomo, we looked out at one of the decorative angels on the exterior of the building. From the ground, the angels look so tiny. Seeing these details up close make you appreciate the exquisite work and craftsmanship that has gone in to these historic buildings.
On our tour we got to walk on a "hidden" walkway up high in the Duomo. I say hidden because the stone work is part of the facade. We got an interesting view of the length of this beautiful place from a great vantage point.
For almost 200 years, 40 artists carved the marble floor with intricate patterns from scenes of the Old Testament and historical allegories. From the entrance to the altar, you see a progression from simple allegorical images followed by more elaborate floors featuring detailed stories from the Old Testament with intricate techniques such as inlaid marble.
These busts of 172 former Popes, whose reign was from St.Peter's time to the 12th century lie the perimeter of the roof line. A curious detail is that there are four faces that are repeated over and over again.
As well as frescoes lining the walls of the Piccolomini Library, these music manuscripts are on display all around the room. They date from the 15th century and are made of sheepskin. They are so large because this era predates individual hymn books and the choir would read from one large book. Each page is a work of art and show little evidence of their age.
For us, the Piccolomini Library is a treasure within the Duomo. The 10 frescoes on the walls celebrate the life of Pope Pius II, music manuscripts line the walls and the Roman statue of the 3 Graces are in the middle of the room. Standing here one can feel the history of what it must have been like as a library, centuries ago.
The 10 frescoes in the Library are remarkable in their vibrancy as they have never been retouched. Large windows flood the library with light, so candles were never used. This eliminated the tell-tale soot from centuries of burning candles. The 3 dimensional skill of the artist is shown well by the "arches" over each fresco.
This marble altar was designed for the tomb of Pope Pious III, born in Siena. As he was buried at the Vatican, this was never used. Most notable is the statue of St. Paul which was carved by Michaelangelo.
The pulpit carved by Pisano from 1268 rests on the backs of lions, an important Christian symbol. The seven detailed panels show the life of Christ. Pisano's son continued the work and carved many of the panels.
A section of the moving and violent scene of the Slaughter of the Innocents. The carved marble panels and mosaics show the time of Herod sitting on his throne ordering the slaughter of babies to prevent the coming of the Messiah.
The painting, Madonna and Child, in the Chapel of Madonna del Voto. This has tremendous significance for Siena and as well, the Palio (horse race) is dedicated to her.
We were very lucky that we were visiting the catherdral at this time of the year as the beautiful floor is usually covered in gray carpeting the rest of the year.
Francesco and Carlo are siblings who run the business at the Allimentari (Mama does the cooking) and over 3 days we got to know them very well. Each day we would go in to see what was being prepared for dinner and we would take it back to the apartment. A great place.
Francesco at the Alimentari taught us much about traditional Tuscan cuisine. She encouraged us to try this local Sienese delicacy - raw salami spread on fresh bread. It was actually very tasty.
