We have enjoyed camping near Assisi and all of the routines and rituals that go with it. We are lucky to have the best of both worlds with a combination of camping and local accommodation. However, packing up from a wet night is not the fun part of what we enjoy. It was hard to get going today as the humidity is high (thunder storms and heavy rain are forecast) and Barry is once again fighting a tummy bug. If the weather wasn't an issue, we would probably stay put but we would like to get ahead of the weather. We had a shortened day of riding as we spent the morning sightseeing in Saint Maria degli Angeli. Stopping to visit the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels was worthwhile and meaningful for us. This was where both Francis and St. Clare worked, lived and died (Francis). Despite a number of tourists, it was quite low key and the focus was squarely on the remarkable life and impact of their lifes' work. The Basilica is unusual in that it is two churches in one. It was built in the 16th century to encompass the tiny Porziuncola Chapel, the one Francis used. The large number of pilgrims who travelled to honour Francis created the need for the larger Basilica. It is surreal to walk into this grand cathedral and see the miniature chapel directly below the dome. Within this church and monastery is a small, simple Chapel of St. Clare, a museum, the garden and site of Francis' death. We really enjoyed our visit here. The weather turned really nasty with a heavy downpour and when we could, we headed off.
Images of St. Francis often show him with an animal, and here he is talking to a lamb.
This is truly a unique Basilica - two churches in one. The grandiose outer church holds the humble small Porziuncola Chapel which was given to Francis by the monks after his conversion. As well, this small chapel is located where he lived after he founded the Franciscan order and it is also where he consecrated St. Clare as a bride of Christ.
Doves like to be in the walkway on the way to the Rose Garden where Francis is reputed to have fought temptation and threw himself on the roses - since then, thornless roses have grown here.
A wonderful statue of St. Clare. It is interesting to learn about this fascinating young noble woman who rejected her wealthy life and gave up everything to follow the teachings of St. Francis. She had to defy her father and remain hidden as her family were determined to save her from the life she chose.
After Cannara, we were surprised to be on a dedicated bike path. Through much of Italy (since the Adige/Etsch route) we have been riding on secondary roads. The path was well signed and gravel. The only problems were the awkward and unridable access points when the trail followed the dyke and the big puddles/mud from the heavy rain.. Grrr....
For part of today's ride, we will be on a dedicated bike path.
It was an unexpected delight to leave the trail and enter the medieval village of Bevagna. This is probably the most photogenic place we have seen in Italy. Combined with the impossibly high level of humidity and being presented with such an off the track gem like Bevagna, we decided to stop early and explore this town. So much to see here - it is a completely walled city with its roots dating back to Roman times. We were entranced by beautiful mosaics, rustic stone churches, a Roman theatre, character filled homes and apts.tucked in to alleys. And best of all, we found a restored former Convent that has been converted into an Albergo. We were hooked by this off the beaten path gem of a village. Glad we decided to stay.
We love finding Bars whereever we go in Italy. They offer the best value - inexpensive food and coffee (always good), homemade ice cream and a gathering place for locals. They are usually family run and much pride is taken to make this simple business very attractive. Most locals use outside tables or stand at the bar - we like being inside as in Italy, there is no smoking allowed in public buildings.
A small shop in Bevagna - full of incredible things - meat, fresh produce, fresh pasta, baking, shelf goods. We find that the prices are competitve with big stores and the experience is always fun and interesting. We like that small shops still exist. They offer incredible selection and service. We wanted parmesan for dinner, so they grated some fresh for us. As we keep hearing and learning, Italy is renowned for its "slow food" culture.
Pigeons have taken over the old walls of the city. Homes have been built in to the fortification, and the residents have tried putting up metal grates and other deterrents - somehow, the pigeons always win.
Bevagna, so much to see and take in - There are many significant sites to visit and they are all open with no charge for entry. You just need a simple map and start walking.
Looking at the cloisters from the hotel section above. Our hotel is adjacent to the Roman temple and piazzas where so much history has taken place over the past 2000 years
