Another Blissful Day of Riding Downhill: surrounded by apples, apples and more apples
Camping in Italy is more expensive than we are accustomed to. We are learning to priorize and walk away if it is not for us. Camping Adler in Naturno was a good choice. Waldcamping across the river was recommended but we declined as a spot of grass with the other tenters for 30 plus euros was a bit steep. At Camping Adler, we had the choice of any available motorhome site, a warm indoor pool/sauna, great facilities and all within the village. The cost here was 25 euros, but it felt better as we liked the campground better.
The only downside of our night in Naturno, was the 2 hour heavy rain/thunder & lightning storm. Later we tried to listen to our audiobook, Child 44, but the roar of the heavy rain drowned out the sound of our book. As the shuttle driver at Reschen Pass told us, "summer is over" and indeed that is what it feels like.
I know we have said this before, but today's ride was extraordinary. We cruised down well maintained paved trails, through countless apple orchards (so close you can touch them),alongside the dynamic Etsch River and enjoyed beautiful vistas and mountains close by. Today has been a highlight of our trip so far.
Approaching Merano, the newly developed portion of the route takes you to a lookout over the city (several 100 m below) and then gives you the thrill of descending car-free down switchbacks to the valley.
We didn't explore Merano as it seemed industrial and too big to take the time to explore. Of course, our impression could be wrong as we didn't give it a chance. The truth is, we couldn't wait to get back on the trail and in the rural/village setting we prefer.
At this point, we are no longer following the Via Claudia Augusta (and haven't fo some time) as we prefer the Etsch Radweg. This route follows the river, is flatter and prettier - whereas the VCA often undulates away from the river and over hills and some gravel areas. Signage here is either a simple brown or red sign with a bicycle symbol and the name of the next city/village. Interestingly, we have seen little evidence of VCA signage since leaving Reschen Pass area. Camping again tonight just outside of Bolzano at Camping Moosbauer. We know that bad weather is coming tomorrow, so we are considering our options. The weather app said that rain would start at 7 am, but it rained hard pretty much through the night with thunder thrown in as well. Our tent camping area is gravel and dirt - so it is going to be messy. The internet connection is very good, so we may stay put and take shelter from the storm that will continue tomorrow.
Riding along we couldn't believe our eyes as we saw the cable car seemingly suspended in space over the ravine. Many hiker and mountain bikers go up by cable car and come back down on their own.
With the financial help of the EU, this modern station has been built to monitor the flow, depth, etc of the river. In the past, 2 men were suspended over the river on a pulley and would lower a measuring device into the water.