A scorcher of a day ( 37+ C. ) and a 92 kilometre ride on the Po River
We have enjoyed staying with Felix and Vanessa at Agrituismo Boschi Celati, sharing meals, conversation and much laughter. You can’t beat sleeping in a rural setting as it is so quiet.
Agriturismos are an element of travelling in Italy that we really enjoy. On previous trips we have taken advantage of them whenever we can. Many years ago, farmers were struggling to make a living in Italy and many were leaving their farms. Italy had the brilliant idea of encouraging them to continue farming, by offering tax incentives if they opened rooms to visitors and offered meals. Typically, breakfast is provided and when you are lucky, dinner as well. Agriturismos tend to offer home cooked Italian food with ingredients sourced from their farm.
It is truly a win-win for all. We get to stay on an Italian farm, which can be a farm with cattle, orchards, crops and/or wineries and the farmer is able to make a more profitable living and continue his lifestyle of farming and living in rural surroundings. Some agriturismos are very special with a homey appproach and is often reasonably priced. We always gain such positive insights of how Italians live and we enjoy connecting with them on a personal level. Our preference is the small family farm which may offer a few rooms and perhaps camping as well. It is not unusual to arrive and be offered a bottle of their wine, fruits and veggies from the farm....
Today we rode further than we intended, and that was not by choice. When we could,w we took shelter from the hot sun and sought out shade, but there we no breezes. Camping is not available in this area and there were no places to stay. The towns in this area look to be suffering financially and have a look of faded glory. Finally we found accomodation in Casalmaggiore, a city with little to see and a commercial zone which creates a lot of truck traffiC. However, it had a nice hotel with air conditioning and a breakfast buffet. We negotiated a better price for the room and were happy to stop. A long day of meandering around the loops of the Po River.
Boschi Celati: the sprawling multi generation family home with a breakfast room for guests on the main level.
The pony was out for a walk and was grazing in the garden by the restaurant. It was very frisky when it was in the garden. I enjoyed watching it jumping for joy.
Boschi Celati is a big operation with several rooms and a lovely dining room with al fresco dining in the garden as well. The cook was gathering herbs and decorative branches for bouquets.
When you are hot and struggling on the ride, it is always good to find things to amuse you. We got a kick out of this sea-doo on the roof of the house. We often debate about where it is best to store our kayak at home and it has never occurred to us to store it on our roof. One learns so much when travelling!
This view is typical of the Po valley - brown tones and stone homes and barns. Previously we rode the Po from Mantova to Ferrara in early September after harvest. We are enjoying seeing a more lush landscape this time of year.
Most of the Po River route is on a dyke - no shade and a straight line. It is a route that we are using because it gets us to where we need to go - but it is always a conflict as we find it tedious and hot. Typically the villages are not very prosperous and offer few distractions.
My goodness, it is so hot. Barry disappeared in to a Bar and returned with a bag of cold drinks. My favourites are the lemon drinks that are so good in Italy.