June 17, 2023
Topping the Kank
Conway to North Woodstock
I slept in the top bunk last night. I practiced getting down so that I wouldn’t kill myself going to the bathroom in the early morning hours. I learned 2 things: barefoot works better than sandals and face the bed when descending. I am getting old man privileges, the lower bunk, at tonight’s hostel.
After eating a greasy breakfast at a town diner with a really cranky owner, I headed for the day’s big test. Last night my friend Ursula told me that the climb over Kancamangus Pass isn’t nearly as hard as it looks. It turns out she was right.
As for the scenery, the Kancamangus Highway has to be one of the most scenic roads in the US. Even in the rain it’s gorgeous. I can’t imagine what it looks like with fall foliage.
Riding once again in rain gear, I found the first 18 miles of gradual climbing to be no problem at all. I couldn’t believe it. I knew some steep stuff was ahead but I put that thought out of my mind and enjoyed the cruise, even with a steady rain.
Who would have thought that today’s first two hours would be the easiest of the trip?
The scenery at the lower elevations was the bomb. Rushing water over rapids. National Forest land with dense stands of trees. More ferns than an 80s yuppie bar. Three covered bridges. Alas, no mooses. I did spot long chains of motorcycles, Jeeps, and Mini Coopers though.
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After 18 or 19 miles the game changed. The climb into the clouds to the pass had begun. Instead of a 1 or 2 percent grade I was dealing with 6 to 9 percent inclines. Granny got a workout. My perineal nerve started to bark so I stopped now and then to unweight my bottom.
The pass came about a mile later than I expected. Regardless I was impressed that I made it to the top before noon.
It was cold and dank up there in the clouds. I took the obligatory selfie and had a snack. I had been running my red blinkie light but now I put on my helmet-mounted headlight.
The road was wet and the grade was -9 percent. I’d have loved to let The Mule run free but I couldn’t trade the chance of not making a sharp curve or hitting a pot hole. As it turned out the pavement was in very good condition. Even at 25 to 30 mph I had no trouble controlling the beast.
I did have trouble staying warm. Descending in the cold rain had me shivering by the time I arrived in Lincoln, 12 miles below the pass.
I had lunch in a restaurant more to warm up than to satisfy my hunger. (The burger, beans, and rice were mediocre, but the coffee was hot.)
After lunch I rode two miles to my hostel in North Woodstock where I took a glorious hot shower. I learned while washing up that I had left my razor in Conway. Just another thing I don’t have to drag up a mountain.
I secured a campsite for tomorrow night about 35 miles away. It is supposed to stop raining sometime early tomorrow; my hope is that I won’t be camping in mud.
Today has given me more confidence that I can do three more climbs to get to Middlebury on Monday. Fingers crossed.
Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 1,418 miles (2,282 km)
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