June 28, 2023
Purple Air
Dunkirk, New York to Erie, Pennsylvania
The hotel proved to be a great find. The complimentary breakfast was a feast. Eggs, sausage, a bagel, a bowl of Cheerios, coffee, and OJ.
My Warmshowers host in Erie texted me to say that smoke from Canadian wildfires had shut down all outdoor activities in town. Air quality had reached Code Purple levels. She suggested waiting a day to ride, but I decided to forge ahead wearing my N95 mask.
The mask worked great. It slowed me down mostly because I had to stop and take it off to eat or drink. Only when I removed it could I smell the smoke. Fortunately the terrain was very forgiving but for a couple of climbs near the end of the day.
I was riding along Lake Erie but didn’t see it much because of all the shoreline homes. I did see a acres and acres of vineyards. This area is crazy for the grape.
There were several interesting oddities along the way. One was a stone lighthouse. Another was a sign looking for workers that quoted a song from the 70s. A third was a promotion for a book about which I know nothing. Finally there was a drive in movie theater, a dinosaur of a business.
The haze from the fires increased throughout the day. I can see why Erie called a time out.
On my way to my Warmshowers host I rode down Millionaires’ Row in Erie, a street lined with century-old mansions of all manner of design.
I am sleeping in the basement of my host's house. It’s very close to my route. Tomorrow I am springing for a Holiday Inn because I can’t stand the thought of another skanky motel. The smoke is expected to be gone tomorrow, but I picked up another N-95 mask = free at CVS - just in case.
If all goes to plan I’ll be in Pittsburgh in three days.
Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 2,107 miles (3,391 km)
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