May 10, 2007
To Shigatse: Alt 3850
We follow our same routine, pack up, muesli breakfast, roll our bikes out into the courtyard. We are not sure of what to expect of the road surface today and the hotel people don't seem too clear about it. The road turns out to be great. Despite a little detour, just outside the city where they are rebuilding the only bridge out of town and re-routing traffic across a rocky dam. We are treated to smooth asphalt for the 90km ride to Shigatse.
Right out of town we have nice views of the ruined fort on a barren hill, further on the valley widens. The mountains on both sides are barren, no snow in sight. The valley is very fertile, everywhere are farmers ploughing and planting their fields. The yaks used to pull the plows are decorated with bright red tassels and bells. We help a local cyclist who has a broken chain and is using a rock to try and hammer the pins back in. A chain tool does that much better!
We can see the Shigatse fort (dzong) from a distance, and we ride through the "new" Chinese town to find the Tensin Hotel on the edge of the old town. The hotel has a restaurant and a nice view of the fort. The rooms with a bathroom are nice but the price is a bit expensive. Patrick negotiates a 170 yuan rate and pays for two nights.
First order of business after shuttling our gear and bikes to the room is to head for the PSB and see about a permit for Everest Base Camp. We walk a short distance and find a locked gate and a notice saying that individual permits are no longer issued and have to go through the government Tibet travel agent FIT. As we expected, they can only get you there herded in a land cruiser tour. Later as the PSB reopens we go back and talk with a friendly lady, but she is powerless to help us she says. It is no longer possible to travel individually (without a guide and vehicle) to the base camp. We are sure these changes are in reaction to the American protesters that unfurled a "free Tibet" flag at base camp in protest of Chinese intentions of running the Olympic torch up there. Lhasa had been locked down for awhile not even letting tours leave.
At the internet cafe, we go through emails, add captions to our photos on Picasa, While there we meet 4 kiwi women who are cycling with 8 others on a supported trip. We shop at a supermarket, we plan to stay two days in Shigatse to see the sights and rest.
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Today's ride: 93 km (58 miles)
Total: 9,000 km (5,589 miles)
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