April 26, 2007
To Medro Gongkar: a snow storm requires a ride
We both sleep well in our sleeping bags covered with the comforters provided in the room. When we wake up at about 0700, we see the surrounding hills covered with a fresh layer of snow. The steel stairs up to our first floor room is covered with ice. This all does not bode well for the conditions on the 5000 meter high Mi La (pass) we cross today. Even though the road here at 4300 meter is clear and dry it will be different up higher.
We walk across the road to use the public toilets one more time, the guy must still be asleep so we get away without paying the one yuan fee. The Muslim restaurant downstairs has a kettle with hot water on the stove which we can use for our coffee and hot cereal. As we set off it starts to snow lightly.
We are realistic enough to know that we probably won't be able to cycle the pass today, but we'll see how far we can get before we need to take a ride. Not that there is much chance for a ride this early in the morning anyway. There are very few cars, not trucks or buses passing us. The summit is 28 kms away, we do about 10 before the snow turns nasty. Patrick see a truck come up behind us, probably the first one today and he waves the truck down with an outstretched arm, palm down, waving up and down. This is the signal for "please stop, I want a ride."
It works, he stops about 100 meters past us. Patrick rides up sees the open cargo area is empty and asks if we can put our bikes on the back. Not that the driver speaks any English, but the gesture of loading the bikes on the truck is understood. It is a large ten ton truck with double rear axle so should be able to make it over the pass. We unload the bikes, Patrick climbs over the tailgate then Rachel and driver hand all the gear up. We get to ride in the cab.
The sleet turns into real snow and the last five kilometers the road is covered in snow and ice. On the other side of the pass the weather has been worse, there are about 4 inches of fresh snow. We ride down the pass to the small town of Rutok that has some hotsprings and a large hotel that seems to be closed. It is only 1030 and we decide to cycle from here to the next large town Medro Gongkar about 54kms and 600 meters lower that Rutok. The driver helps us unload the bikes and he refuses the money Patrick tries to give him for the ride. He seems surprised we do not want to ride all the way to Lhasa with him.
There is still a lot of snow on the hills and fields but the road is mostly clear and the weather seems to be improving. The first 20 kms are nice riding. Then a hail and snow storm moves in and we struggle against a strong headwind and stinging ice pellets. At one point we need to find shelter behind a low wall for awhile. Just as things seem at its worst it gets even worse, Rachel notices my rear tire is going flat. We make it to a small town where Patrick changes the tube in a muddy courtyard. The last 15kms of the day are better; still a headwind but it dries out a bit. When we get to town we find the main hotel closed down. Whenever we ask for directions to a "linguan" people keep pointing to this same place.
Finally a boy in a wheelchair trike leads us to a hotel above a restaurant right at the intersection we have been asking people for directions. The staff looks very professional and large for this small restaurant with some rooms above. They all wear uniforms and badges. The room is basic, but no complaints here! There are no showers and the two squat toilets at the end of the hallway are filthy and cannot be flushed with a scoop of water. As far as we can tell, there is no running water.
The restaurant food is good, we have a late lunch then walk across the road for an hour in the local internet cafe/game room. It's sad to see most local youths only using the great resource of the internet for computer games. We answer some emails and organize pictures on the picasa site. It's cold when we return to our room, we lay under a comforter and read.
Tomorrow to Lhasa!
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Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 8,573 km (5,324 miles)
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