April 17, 2007
To marker 4027 Free Camping: Sumoraon valley
We love the smell of a pine forest.
Today our ride takes us down the Sumoraon valley still following the river downstream and mainly through pines. In the distance around every corner and past ridges, a new snow covered peak appears. The road isn't all downhill (never is), there are a few hills marked with the dreaded "up" arrow.
Again this morning a convoy passes us. Patrick has scrambled down a hillside to get a better picture of the mountains. Rachel waiting at the side of the road with the bikes, the convoy pass and she gets honks, thumbs up, salutes, one soldier threw her a kiss and one driver waved enthusiastically with BOTH hands.
The villages we pass through look like planned housing--houses in Tibetan style but in rows with metal roofs of red or blue. There is an attempt to make them look Tibetan in shape but the decorations are not even close and look like bad copies. Again very few stupas.
One village had a huge stupa many prayer flags and mani stones and prayer wheels. There are a few elderly women and a young woman with a baby, walking a kora (clockwise) around the stupa three times turning the prayer wheels. From the Lonely planet: "the stupa (chortens) are symbolic of 5 levels representing 4 elements and eternal space: the square base symbolizes earth, the dome water; the spire fire; and the top mon and sun are air and space. The 13 discs of the ceremonial umbrella represent the tree of life or the 10 powers and 3 mindfulness of the Buddha. The top seed shaped pinnacle symbolizes enlightenment. The chorten as a whole represents the path to enlightenment."
About noon, we reach Pomi. As we enter town we see the military compound and the trucks that have passed us. The town is surrounded by mountains and is one straight road lined with shops and restaurants. There is kind of center square that is the staging area for the buses. Patrick spots a supermarket and goes in to replenish our food and supplies (toilet paper and toothpaste, snacks) A little further on we stop at a restaurant and have 2 dishes with enough left over for take away for dinner. We continue on and spot a bakery and a second one further on that we treat ourselves with ice cream cups and the tiniest spoons ever!!
As we eat, men gather around curious about our bikes and where we are going. A few police cars pass but take no notice of us. Then we are out of town for the last 24 kms to a campsite!! In the town we notice very few Tibetan looking people, most look Chinese and signs are in Chinese only.
There is a big climb out of town, we reach the marker where the campsite is supposed to be but we are not satisfied and continue on. Patrick finds a beautiful spot off the road and with a side river where Rachel does the laundry and a flowing stream where Patrick filters water. There are mountains in every direction, Patrick takes a cold bath in the river as horses trot by.
And of course, Patrick gathers wood for a campfire as the sun is setting. We've organized the food bought in town and enjoy a cup of coffee with whisky and the take away food is reheated. There are a few clouds forming and it's nice not to be cold. Last night it rained and the wind shook the tent.
Tonight looks to be more peaceful.
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Today's ride: 74 km (46 miles)
Total: 8,065 km (5,008 miles)
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