To Free camp Before Yangjing: Mile marker (MM) 1760, the milepost for the Tibetan Border

April 6, 2007

The night was restless, seems lots of traffic on the road and about 3 o'clock a troop of people and children with flashlights walk past us, other times 1-2 people walk by... appears we camped on a trail. No one disturb us, but the sound of voices surprises us during the night.

We pack up and on the road by 8am. The road continues to be rocky, but not as bad as cobblestones. Sometimes we seem close to the Mekong River, other times the river is in a deep canyon. "It's like Hell's Canyon," Patrick says.

Most people seem to live and farm on the other side of the river. Every so often there is a bridge across to the settlements, each with a white washed stupa and prayer flags or prayer sticks. Then we get a glimpse back on our side of the river and see whitewashed houses and green rice field above us on the canyon walls.. The kilometers count down slowly. The road winds along the canyon first climbing a little, then a bit of a downhill, and in the distance, there is always another curve around a corner.

We reach mile marker (MM) 1760, the milepost for the Tibetan Border.

In the distance is an archway and lots of trucks. As we get closer we see a road camp and road construction. This continues another 4.5kms, we don't know what to expect of the cyclists "secret" camp spot of adobe walls.... marked by the place where powerlines come up out of the canyon from the powerhouse across the river. We arrive at the spot, Patrick checks it out and says, "It's been used as a toilet".

It's 4 km to town with the first of two checkpoints.

Around the corner we can see the town, prospects for a camping spot looks bleak; it's 1430, we consider waiting and going through the checkpoint at dark, but then we would need to find a campsite soon after the checkpoint.

There is a hut for construction workers with a flat spot along the side, we decide to pitch the tent there in the "not so secret" spot. It's nice to stretch out in the tent and Patrick fixes coffee. About 1830, Patrick heats water for our instant noodle dinner.

The plan is to awaken at 0200, pack up and with headlamps make our way through the checkpoints by 0400. Tomorrow will be an adventure.