April 16, 2007
To another free camping spot: yak tea with pilgrims
For a change today we follow a river downstream. Seems as though most rivers we've followed has been upstream. The Parlang Tsangpo River is beautiful glacial blue like the Ngan Tso lake.
Again, there is ice on the rainfly of the tent, but the water is ok. Patrick got the campfire going again, nice and warm as we eat breakfast and pack up. The morning sun is reflecting off the peaks. For 10kms we follow the lake and then the road changes from asphalt to unsealed. At first the road seems ok, better than the sections with the road construction we had earlier. Gradually though it becomes more and more corrugated, we weave from one side of the road to the other trying to find a smoother ride. Even though we are losing altitude overall, there are a few sections with tough climbs. It's never all downhill.
We see the river almost continuously as it carves its way down the rocky gorge. At every turn it seems we see a new mountain snow covered peak. There are very few stupas, but we see many prayer flags. Midday, we are invited to join 8 pilgrims "camped" at the side of the road. They have a fire going and offer us something to drink. We have a bottle of orange juice that we drank instead. Yak tea is not our cup of tea. They very much want their pictures taken. We exchange addresses (we think) to send them copies. They are on pilgrimage walking to Lhasa. Patrick tries to explain how we saw the Dali Lama in America.
After 33kms of unsealed road we reach pavement again. We both feel beat up and tired. Another 20kms we reach an area other cyclists have listed as good camping. We can see mountain peaks in both directions and just above the river so we can filter water. The shrubs are beginning to be less and we are seeing pine trees and the aspen are leafing out. The temperature is warmer, though a light breeze is cooling and clouds are beginning to form over the peaks.
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Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 7,991 km (4,962 miles)
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