July 6: Jardín to Riosucio

July 6, 2022

Because we arrived into Jardín after dark, we chose to spend a long morning in town before heading out. Plus, our next destination would be Riosucio ("dirty river"), which did not sound nearly as beautiful as the town we were currently in. Jardín had a beautiful centro, and I enjoyed a strong americano and filling breakfast overlooking the central square. The weather was perfect, with more of the characteristic puffy Colombian clouds that are starting to define many of the landscapes we are so lucky to see.

We finally hit the road around 11:30 and were immediately tasked with an enormous 10-mile climb out of town. The scenery was Pacific Northwest-esque, with ferns and pines lining the dirt road. As we ascended above Jardín the clouds slowly set in, and as we neared the summit of our climb a light rain began to fall. The road was clearly washed out in areas, and we frequently had to ride through deep muddy puddles.

After summiting we enjoyed a brief downhill followed by another shorter stint of climbing. The air was cold, and we found ourselves largely alone on the road with only the occasional moto or truck passing us. We stopped at a small house where we had a plate of fried trout, rice, plantain, tomato, and soup for lunch. We laughed and hoped that eating trout from a town called Dirty River wouldn't come back to haunt us.

Following lunch, we enjoyed an absolutely ripping descent into Riosucio. We stopped for photos and at that moment met with Ramiro, a local cyclist.

Apparently these trees are used to make paper. There is often competition for land between the paper mill companies and the local avocado growers.

Looking towards Riosucio. The terrain is somehow becoming even more mountainous.

Ramiro was extremely eager to show us around, even with the sun dipping below the horizon. He took us to a nearby lookout and then back a little ways to a small house where he bought us each a cup of coffee and arepas with quesillo. This light cheese is served with every meal in this region, and we certainly had our fill of it today.

Ramiro then rode with us into town and pointed out several landmarks. It was well after dark at this point, and as I navigated the winding road into town I had to pinch myself: this is Colombia. I had zero worries in the world. It certainly felt as safe as anywhere in the states. Ramiro affirmed this thought of mine, and told me that he and his friends always go for night rides in the mountains without issue.

Riosucio is much nicer than the name would suggest. Ramiro attributed the name to misguided Spaniards passing through centuries ago and naming the town after a small muddy creek up near the mountains. He then guided us towards three different hotels, and we settled on the second of the options. Again, the generosity of others continues to be a defining part of this trip, and we were extremely grateful for Ramiro's enthusiasm and guidance.

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,037 km (644 miles)

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Max BoockWhen you say you stopped at a small house for lunch, does this mean just a random person's house? I'm amazed at the kindness of everyone to provide you with shelter and meals so readily. I wish the U.S. was more like this!
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2 years ago

Jeremy NolanKind of! People often have little patios with some chairs out front, and that's usually a sign that they offer food. Usually it's just a flat rate for a lunch and drink. People have been unbelievably kind. There is a lot about Colombia that the US could learn from.
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2 years ago