July 25: Sibundoy to Laguna de la Cocha

July 25, 2022

If I'm perfectly honest, today was a really tough day, but it panned out in the long run.

The white noise of rainfall on the awning's steel roof kept us asleep throughout the night. We awoke to a beautiful, cloudy sunrise over the valley and began packing for our day.

The rain eventually cleared and we headed out to the opposite end of the valley, where we would have a large climb that would take us up and over to Laguna de la Cocha. We had heard from passing cyclists that the grades on this climb were challenging, and they were certainly correct. Through switchbacks we ascended towards 11,000ft. The tenperature continued to drop and eventually a light rainfall began to fall.

We were soon absolutely soaked and quite cold, so we pulled into a roadside comedor for coffee and lunch. Unfortunately, I am still having trouble eating enough, and when I do I often wake up the following morning feeling pretty unenthused. Lunch today was no exception, which got me kind of down. Perhaps it's my body's way of telling me it is soon time to wrap up this trip and head home, or just the antibiotics doing their job.

We ended up staying at the comedor for two hours to let the worst of the rain pass. We then donned damp clothes, and I made a makeshift poncho out of a trash bag. Looking like actual trash, I headed up behind Girish and Brian. The climb was miserably damp, but boy if my poncho didn't work well. We eventually summited under lightening rain and began our descent through the páramo, a distinct ecological region in the Andes. They are the main water source for the country, and we clearly had an authentic experience amidst the rainfall and frailejon plants.

Wet, stinky, and donned in a trash bag, but at the summit!

A sea of frailejones on the Colombian páramo.

The descent took us down to Laguna de la Cocha, where we got a hot aguapanela to warm up before searching for a place to stay and dry out. After several unsuccessful inquiries, we found a quaint hospedaje with a restaurant and chimenea. As I write this, I'm warming up next to the burning fire and listening to a recording of a native Quechuan band. We have noticed much more of an indigenous influence in the past two days, which will likely continue into Ecuador. I wish I had more time to experience it.

At sunset, Girish quietly told us to look outside, where we watched two toucans eating fruit from the trees. I've wanted to see a wild toucan for years, and today was the day. In that moment, any ill feelings about the challenges of the day dissipated away and I felt truly content. Thank you, toucans, for brightening a tough day.

Portrait of an exhausted cyclist (2022).

Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 2,063 km (1,281 miles)

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